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No matter how the passages are cleaned out and opened up, patience and a li=
ght touch is key. Assuming the oil passages are in straight lines, I would =
suggest initially foregoing any powered attempts to clean out those passage=
s using tools that are as highly tempered and hardened as drill bits, etc. =
An extended length 4-6 flute reamer with straight flutes, favored over tap=
ered reamers for this application, available from any machine tool supply h=
ouse or catalogs like McMaster-Carr might be a better choice than a drill. =
I would prefer a series of extended length straight flute reamers in this a=
pplication. Reamers are not designed to pull themselves deeper into the mat=
erial they are used in, but rather to enlarge an existing opening. Once the=
passage has opened, a reamer will be very effective at removing rust, corr=
osion and even original material but far less likely to break than a drill =
bit. If a drill bit is used, extra long aircraft drill bits are available f=
rom the above sources and can be mounted in a hand held drill chuck and app=
lied by hand, reducing the chance of breaking but even in that method I wou=
ld not use a drill bit if the passage were open. I would still much prefer =
using 2-3 reamers of various diameters close to each other in O.D. starting=
with one close to the same rough diameter of the existing passage and care=
fully work up from there. Patience and a light touch is key.
Once those rods have their oil passages cleaned out it might be worthwhile =
talking them to a motor rebuilding shop to have them properly evaluated for=
wear and condition. A well equipped shop will have a dedicated machine to =
test and evaluate each rod in addition to using hand micrometers to measure=
each rod end opening. This way each rod can be checked for length being wi=
thin accepted tolerance plus any indication of very slight twist and/or ang=
le deformity that might not be visible to the naked eye.
I did this with a Ford V6 engine I recently totally overhauled starting wit=
h a bare block and a new crankshaft and discovered two of the original 6 ro=
ds were outside their tolerance range in at least one of their specificatio=
ns. Unless you have a lot of experience using precision ID and OD micromete=
rs and have a granite plate it might be worth your time to have a dedicated=
, well equipped, engine rebuilding business check each rod for you. The las=
t thing you want to end up with is an assembled engine that has a slightly =
misaligned rod or one out of wear tolerance, inside.
Good luck on the rebuild.
Randall S.
________________________________
From: Triumphs [triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] on behalf of Alex&Janet Th=
omson [aljlthomson@charter.net]
Sent: Sunday, December 04, 2016 9:18 AM
To: 'Bill Brewer'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Opening Up Connecting Rod Oil Passages
If I were to use a drill, I think I would try a slightly undersize bit. Rus=
t usually breaks up fairly easily but removing original material might be a=
lot to ask a full size, generic bit to do at such a length. I would dread =
the thought of a drill bit breaking of in the hole. I think there would be =
less chance of breakage with a slightly undersize drill.
Alex Thomson
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill B=
rewer
Sent: Saturday, December 03, 2016 9:48 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Opening Up Connecting Rod Oil Passages
So I am rebuilding a Standard Vanguard engine for a 1953 Morgan Plus 4=
. The connecting rods have been laying on a shed floor for decades. They cl=
eaned up nicely, but the oiling hole through the connecting rod to the smal=
l end bushings were all rusted solid. I made a tool out of a piece of 1/8 b=
rass welding rod. I pounded the end flat, like a screwdriver, and pounded i=
t in while turning with a small Vise-grips. It got the hole opened and rust=
poured out. The hole is about 0.180=94 diameter. I=92ve been trying to fin=
d a long 3/16ths tube brush (like a pipe cleaner) to clean them out better,=
but no one makes one long enough. The brush needs to be about 5=94 long an=
d the longest that McMaster Carr has is 3=94. I could pull the small end bu=
shings out and go at it from both ends, but the bushings in there fit the w=
rist pins perfectly and I would rather not mess them up if I can help it.
I have been considering buying a 12=94 long 3/16ths (.188=94) drill bi=
t and running that through. It might open up the hole a little bit, which m=
ight not be a bad thing.
http://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-High-Speed-Split-Point-Steel-=
Drill-Bit/74680.uts
Has anybody else been here? How did you get by this?
TIA,
Bill Brewer
Tehachapi, CA
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">
<div style=3D"direction: ltr;font-family: Tahoma;color: #000000;font-size: =
10pt;">No matter how the passages are cleaned out and opened up, patience a=
nd a light touch is key. Assuming the oil passages are in straight lines, I=
would suggest initially foregoing
any powered attempts to clean out those passages using tools that are as h=
ighly tempered and hardened as drill bits, etc. An extended length 4-=
6 flute reamer with straight flutes, favored over tapered reamers for this =
application, available from any machine
tool supply house or catalogs like McMaster-Carr might be a better choice =
than a drill. I would prefer a series of extended length straight flute rea=
mers in this application. Reamers are not designed to pull themselves deepe=
r into the material they are used
in, but rather to enlarge an existing opening. Once the passage has opened=
, a reamer will be very effective at removing rust, corrosion and even orig=
inal material but far less likely to break than a drill bit. If a drill bit=
is used, extra long aircraft drill
bits are available from the above sources and can be mounted in a hand hel=
d drill chuck and applied by hand, reducing the chance of breaking but even=
in that method I would not use a drill bit if the passage were open. I wou=
ld still much prefer using 2-3 reamers
of various diameters close to each other in O.D. starting with one close t=
o the same rough diameter of the existing passage and carefully work up fro=
m there. Patience and a light touch is key.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Once those rods have their oil passages cleaned out it might be worthw=
hile talking them to a motor rebuilding shop to have them properly evaluate=
d for wear and condition. A well equipped shop will have a dedicated machin=
e to test and evaluate each rod
in addition to using hand micrometers to measure each rod end opening. Thi=
s way each rod can be checked for length being within accepted tolerance pl=
us any indication of very slight twist and/or angle deformity that might no=
t be visible to the naked eye. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I did this with a Ford V6 engine I recently totally overhauled startin=
g with a bare block and a new crankshaft and discovered two of the original=
6 rods were outside their tolerance range in at least one of their specifi=
cations. Unless you have a lot of
experience using precision ID and OD micrometers and have a granite plate =
it might be worth your time to have a dedicated, well equipped, engine rebu=
ilding business check each rod for you. The last thing you want to end up w=
ith is an assembled engine that
has a slightly misaligned rod or one out of wear tolerance, inside. =
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Good luck on the rebuild. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Randall S.<br>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
<div style=3D"font-family: Times New Roman; color: #000000; font-size: 16px=
">
<hr tabindex=3D"-1">
<div id=3D"divRpF705520" style=3D"direction: ltr;"><font face=3D"Tahoma" si=
ze=3D"2" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Triumphs [triumphs-bounces@autox.te=
am.net] on behalf of Alex&Janet Thomson [aljlthomson@charter.net]<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, December 04, 2016 9:18 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> 'Bill Brewer'; triumphs@autox.team.net<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] Opening Up Connecting Rod Oil Passages<br>
</font><br>
</div>
<div></div>
<div>
<div class=3D"WordSection1">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:#1F497D">If I were to use a dri=
ll, I think I would try a slightly undersize bit. Rust usually breaks up fa=
irly easily but removing original material might be a lot to ask a full siz=
e, generic bit to do at such a length.
I would dread the thought of a drill bit breaking of in the hole. I think =
there would be less chance of breakage with a slightly undersize drill.</sp=
an></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:#1F497D"> </span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:#1F497D">Alex Thomson </span></=
p>
<div>
<div style=3D"border:none; border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt; padding:3.0pt 0i=
n 0in 0in">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt; font-family:&quo=
t;Tahoma","sans-serif"">From:</span></b><span style=3D"font-=
size:10.0pt; font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif""> Triump=
hs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Bill Brewer<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, December 03, 2016 9:48 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> triumphs@autox.team.net<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] Opening Up Connecting Rod Oil Passages</span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt"> &=
nbsp; So I am rebuilding a Standard Vanguard engine for a 1953 Morgan Plus =
4. The connecting rods have been laying on a shed floor for decades. They c=
leaned up nicely, but the oiling hole through the connecting
rod to the small end bushings were all rusted solid. I made a tool out of =
a piece of 1/8 brass welding rod. I pounded the end flat, like a screwdrive=
r, and pounded it in while turning with a small Vise-grips. It got the hole=
opened and rust poured out. The
hole is about 0.180=94 diameter. I=92ve been trying to find a long 3/16ths=
tube brush (like a pipe cleaner) to clean them out better, but no one make=
s one long enough. The brush needs to be about 5=94 long and the longest th=
at McMaster Carr has is 3=94. I could pull
the small end bushings out and go at it from both ends, but the bushings i=
n there fit the wrist pins perfectly and I would rather not mess them up if=
I can help it.</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt"> &=
nbsp; I have been considering buying a 12=94 long 3/16ths (.188=94) drill b=
it and running that through. It might open up the hole a little bit, which =
might not be a bad thing.</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt"> </span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt"><a href=3D"http://w=
ww.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-In-High-Speed-Split-Point-Steel-Drill-Bi=
t/74680.uts" target=3D"_blank">http://www.truevalue.com/product/3-16-x-12-I=
n-High-Speed-Split-Point-Steel-Drill-Bit/74680.uts</a></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt"> </span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt"> &=
nbsp; Has anybody else been here? How did you get by this?</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt"> &=
nbsp; TIA,</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt"> </span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt"> &=
nbsp; Bill Brewer</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt"> &=
nbsp; Tehachapi, CA</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt"> </span></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
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