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Re: [TR] TR4 Won't Start

To: Keith Richard Stewart <keithstewart@bell.net>, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Won't Start
From: TERRY SMITH <terryrs@comcast.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2019 22:05:30 -0400 (EDT)
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: triumphs@autox.team.net
Importance: Medium
References: <013d01d52189$b777b710$26672530$@bell.net>
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Hi, Keith.  My first guess is a sticking needle in the float valve which co=
uld be caused by slight corrosion.  JonMac suggests a light sanding of the =
fins.  Whhile you're in there might as well double check the setting for th=
e float lever despite it not likely to have changed.  You can use a 5/16ths=
 wood dowel.


Terry

> On June 12, 2019 at 9:45 PM Keith Richard Stewart <keithstewart@bell.net>=
 wrote:
>=20
>=20
>     When I took the TR4 (1962) out of winter storage, it started on the s=
econd turn of the key. I drove home fine, no problems. I cleaned up the car=
 for a show last weekend. When I went to start, it was hard starting, did c=
atch and ran rough for a few seconds before stalling. The starter is a hi-t=
orque starter and had lots of =E2=80=9Coomph=E2=80=9D. The rough running wa=
s like it was on two cylinders or less. After several more attempts to get =
it started, including some starting fluid spray, I put the battery charger =
on to make sure the battery was charged fully. I attempted a start with the=
 charger on the =E2=80=9Cstart=E2=80=9D setting with no luck. While looking=
 over the engine compartment for a loose wire or bad connection, I noticed =
substantial oil leak around the filter adapter. The location was such that =
it appeared the seeping was between the oil filter head and the adapter.
>=20
>     =20
>=20
>     Although not associated with the non-start issue, I figured I would t=
ake care of the oil leak, thinking it was the seal between the adapter and =
the filter head. I drained the oil, removed the filter, installed a new fil=
ter and filled with oil. It did seem there was a bit of fuel odor from the =
oil. I did install a new fuel pump two years ago so I will check that later=
. The fuel pump was one of TRF=E2=80=99s =E2=80=9CMade in Italy=E2=80=9D pu=
mps. The additional start attempts since then have not produced any oil see=
ping out.
>=20
>     =20
>=20
>     Back to the start problem.  The carbs are SU HS6, as on the TR4A. I r=
emoved the fuel line at the float bowl and gas pumped out during an attempt=
ed start. The ignition is a Pertronix. When I removed the rotor, it looked =
OK, but I had a spare in a tune up kit and a separate, red rotor, so I trie=
d both with no luck. To make sure the battery was getting at least 10v to t=
he Pertronix, I put in a new battery that I had. No luck. I removed plug #1=
, grounded it on the thermostat housing bolt and tried a start. I had a spa=
rk right away and almost immediately the car started up. Ran roughly =E2=80=
=93 there were only three cylinders getting spark.
>=20
>     =20
>=20
>     I shut off the engine, replaced the spark plug, and tried to start. N=
o luck. Very baffling. I also had spark on #2, #3, and #4. With #2 removed,=
 car starts, Ditto with #3 and #4 removed. Once the plug is back in, the ca=
r will not start. Voltage at rest is 12.75v (have not charged it again afte=
r several start attempts over the past few days) and drops to 11v during st=
arter engagement.
>=20
>     =20
>=20
>     I had a new coil on hand so I tried it as well. No luck. Connections =
from the coil to ignition switch and coil to Pertronix are clean and secure=
.
>=20
>     =20
>=20
>     All plug leads and the distributor lead are clean and secure. Battery=
 connections are clean and secure. Battery putting out 12-14v. Connections =
at the starter solenoid and the starter are clean and secure.
>=20
>     =20
>=20
>     I think that is everything I have tried to date. Any suggestions are =
most welcome.
>=20
>     =20
>=20
>     =20
>=20
>     Keith Stewart
>=20
>     keithstewart@bell.net
>=20
>     =20
>=20


=20

> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>=20
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/a=
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>=20
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>=20


=20

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<!DOCTYPE html>
<html><head>
    <meta charset=3D"UTF-8">
</head><body><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sa=
ns-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">Hi, Keith.&#160; My first guess is a sti=
cking needle in the float valve which could be caused by slight corrosion.&=
#160; JonMac suggests a light sanding of the fins.&#160; Whhile you&#39;re =
in there might as well double check the setting for the float lever despite=
 it not likely to have changed.&#160; You can use a 5/16ths wood dowel.</p>=
<p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; col=
or: rgb(51, 51, 51);"><br></p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: hel=
vetica, arial, sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">Terry</p><blockquote ty=
pe=3D"cite">On June 12, 2019 at 9:45 PM Keith Richard Stewart &#60;keithste=
wart@bell.net&#62; wrote: <br> <br><div class=3D"ox-d320fa681d-WordSection1=
"><p class=3D"ox-d320fa681d-MsoNormal">When I took the TR4 (1962) out of wi=
nter storage, it started on the second turn of the key. I drove home fine, =
no problems. I cleaned up the car for a show last weekend. When I went to s=
tart, it was hard starting, did catch and ran rough for a few seconds befor=
e stalling. The starter is a hi-torque starter and had lots of &#8220;oomph=
&#8221;. The rough running was like it was on two cylinders or less. After =
several more attempts to get it started, including some starting fluid spra=
y, I put the battery charger on to make sure the battery was charged fully.=
 I attempted a start with the charger on the &#8220;start&#8221; setting wi=
th no luck. While looking over the engine compartment for a loose wire or b=
ad connection, I noticed substantial oil leak around the filter adapter. Th=
e location was such that it appeared the seeping was between the oil filter=
 head and the adapter.</p><p class=3D"ox-d320fa681d-MsoNormal">&#160;</p><p=
 class=3D"ox-d320fa681d-MsoNormal">Although not associated with the non-sta=
rt issue, I figured I would take care of the oil leak, thinking it was the =
seal between the adapter and the filter head. I drained the oil, removed th=
e filter, installed a new filter and filled with oil. It did seem there was=
 a bit of fuel odor from the oil. I did install a new fuel pump two years a=
go so I will check that later. The fuel pump was one of TRF&#8217;s &#8220;=
Made in Italy&#8221; pumps. The additional start attempts since then have n=
ot produced any oil seeping out.</p><p class=3D"ox-d320fa681d-MsoNormal">&#=
160;</p><p class=3D"ox-d320fa681d-MsoNormal">Back to the start problem.&#16=
0; The carbs are SU HS6, as on the TR4A. I removed the fuel line at the flo=
at bowl and gas pumped out during an attempted start. The ignition is a Per=
tronix. When I removed the rotor, it looked OK, but I had a spare in a tune=
 up kit and a separate, red rotor, so I tried both with no luck. To make su=
re the battery was getting at least 10v to the Pertronix, I put in a new ba=
ttery that I had. No luck. I removed plug #1, grounded it on the thermostat=
 housing bolt and tried a start. I had a spark right away and almost immedi=
ately the car started up. Ran roughly &#8211; there were only three cylinde=
rs getting spark.</p><p class=3D"ox-d320fa681d-MsoNormal">&#160;</p><p clas=
s=3D"ox-d320fa681d-MsoNormal">I shut off the engine, replaced the spark plu=
g, and tried to start. No luck. Very baffling. I also had spark on #2, #3, =
and #4. With #2 removed, car starts, Ditto with #3 and #4 removed. Once the=
 plug is back in, the car will not start. Voltage at rest is 12.75v (have n=
ot charged it again after several start attempts over the past few days) an=
d drops to 11v during starter engagement.</p><p class=3D"ox-d320fa681d-MsoN=
ormal">&#160;</p><p class=3D"ox-d320fa681d-MsoNormal">I had a new coil on h=
and so I tried it as well. No luck. Connections from the coil to ignition s=
witch and coil to Pertronix are clean and secure.</p><p class=3D"ox-d320fa6=
81d-MsoNormal">&#160;</p><p class=3D"ox-d320fa681d-MsoNormal">All plug lead=
s and the distributor lead are clean and secure. Battery connections are cl=
ean and secure. Battery putting out 12-14v. Connections at the starter sole=
noid and the starter are clean and secure.</p><p class=3D"ox-d320fa681d-Mso=
Normal">&#160;</p><p class=3D"ox-d320fa681d-MsoNormal">I think that is ever=
ything I have tried to date. Any suggestions are most welcome.</p><p class=
=3D"ox-d320fa681d-MsoNormal">&#160;</p><p class=3D"ox-d320fa681d-MsoNormal"=
>&#160;</p><p class=3D"ox-d320fa681d-MsoNormal">Keith Stewart</p><p class=
=3D"ox-d320fa681d-MsoNormal">keithstewart@bell.net</p><p class=3D"ox-d320fa=
681d-MsoNormal">&#160;</p></div></blockquote><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; f=
ont-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: #333333;" class=3D"default-s=
tyle"><br>&#160;</p><blockquote type=3D"cite">** triumphs@autox.team.net **=
 <br> <br>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <br>Archive: http://www.t=
eam.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive <br> <br>Unsubscribe=
/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs@comcast.net=
 <br></blockquote><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial=
,sans-serif; color: #333333;" class=3D"default-style"><br>&#160;</p></body>=
</html>
=20
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