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Thanks Terry. Will check.
=20
Keith
=20
From: TERRY SMITH <terryrs@comcast.net>=20
Sent: June 12, 2019 10:06 PM
To: Keith Richard Stewart <keithstewart@bell.net>; =
triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Won't Start
=20
Hi, Keith. My first guess is a sticking needle in the float valve which =
could be caused by slight corrosion. JonMac suggests a light sanding of =
the fins. Whhile you're in there might as well double check the setting =
for the float lever despite it not likely to have changed. You can use =
a 5/16ths wood dowel.
=20
Terry
On June 12, 2019 at 9:45 PM Keith Richard Stewart <keithstewart@bell.net =
When I took the TR4 (1962) out of winter storage, it started on the =
second turn of the key. I drove home fine, no problems. I cleaned up the =
car for a show last weekend. When I went to start, it was hard starting, =
did catch and ran rough for a few seconds before stalling. The starter =
is a hi-torque starter and had lots of =E2=80=9Coomph=E2=80=9D. The =
rough running was like it was on two cylinders or less. After several =
more attempts to get it started, including some starting fluid spray, I =
put the battery charger on to make sure the battery was charged fully. I =
attempted a start with the charger on the =E2=80=9Cstart=E2=80=9D =
setting with no luck. While looking over the engine compartment for a =
loose wire or bad connection, I noticed substantial oil leak around the =
filter adapter. The location was such that it appeared the seeping was =
between the oil filter head and the adapter.
=20
Although not associated with the non-start issue, I figured I would take =
care of the oil leak, thinking it was the seal between the adapter and =
the filter head. I drained the oil, removed the filter, installed a new =
filter and filled with oil. It did seem there was a bit of fuel odor =
from the oil. I did install a new fuel pump two years ago so I will =
check that later. The fuel pump was one of TRF=E2=80=99s =E2=80=9CMade =
in Italy=E2=80=9D pumps. The additional start attempts since then have =
not produced any oil seeping out.
=20
Back to the start problem. The carbs are SU HS6, as on the TR4A. I =
removed the fuel line at the float bowl and gas pumped out during an =
attempted start. The ignition is a Pertronix. When I removed the rotor, =
it looked OK, but I had a spare in a tune up kit and a separate, red =
rotor, so I tried both with no luck. To make sure the battery was =
getting at least 10v to the Pertronix, I put in a new battery that I =
had. No luck. I removed plug #1, grounded it on the thermostat housing =
bolt and tried a start. I had a spark right away and almost immediately =
the car started up. Ran roughly =E2=80=93 there were only three =
cylinders getting spark.
=20
I shut off the engine, replaced the spark plug, and tried to start. No =
luck. Very baffling. I also had spark on #2, #3, and #4. With #2 =
removed, car starts, Ditto with #3 and #4 removed. Once the plug is back =
in, the car will not start. Voltage at rest is 12.75v (have not charged =
it again after several start attempts over the past few days) and drops =
to 11v during starter engagement.
=20
I had a new coil on hand so I tried it as well. No luck. Connections =
from the coil to ignition switch and coil to Pertronix are clean and =
secure.
=20
All plug leads and the distributor lead are clean and secure. Battery =
connections are clean and secure. Battery putting out 12-14v. =
Connections at the starter solenoid and the starter are clean and =
secure.
=20
I think that is everything I have tried to date. Any suggestions are =
most welcome.
=20
=20
Keith Stewart
=20
=20
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs@comcast.net=20
=20
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link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Thanks =
Terry. Will check.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'>Keith<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'mso-fareast-language:EN-US'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><di=
v style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
lang=3DEN-US>From:</span></b><span lang=3DEN-US> TERRY SMITH =
<terryrs@comcast.net> <br><b>Sent:</b> June 12, 2019 10:06 =
PM<br><b>To:</b> Keith Richard Stewart <keithstewart@bell.net>; =
triumphs@autox.team.net<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] TR4 Won't =
Start<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#33333=
3'>Hi, Keith. My first guess is a sticking needle in the float =
valve which could be caused by slight corrosion. JonMac suggests a =
light sanding of the fins. Whhile you're in there might as well =
double check the setting for the float lever despite it not likely to =
have changed. You can use a 5/16ths wood =
dowel.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#33333=
3'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#33333=
3'>Terry<o:p></o:p></span></p><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>On June 12, 2019 at 9:45 PM Keith Richard =
Stewart <<a =
href=3D"mailto:keithstewart@bell.net";>keithstewart@bell.net</a>> =
wrote: <o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=3Dox-d320fa681d-msonormal>When I =
took the TR4 (1962) out of winter storage, it started on the second turn =
of the key. I drove home fine, no problems. I cleaned up the car for a =
show last weekend. When I went to start, it was hard starting, did catch =
and ran rough for a few seconds before stalling. The starter is a =
hi-torque starter and had lots of =E2=80=9Coomph=E2=80=9D. The rough =
running was like it was on two cylinders or less. After several more =
attempts to get it started, including some starting fluid spray, I put =
the battery charger on to make sure the battery was charged fully. I =
attempted a start with the charger on the =E2=80=9Cstart=E2=80=9D =
setting with no luck. While looking over the engine compartment for a =
loose wire or bad connection, I noticed substantial oil leak around the =
filter adapter. The location was such that it appeared the seeping was =
between the oil filter head and the adapter.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3Dox-d320fa681d-msonormal> <o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3Dox-d320fa681d-msonormal>Although not associated with the =
non-start issue, I figured I would take care of the oil leak, thinking =
it was the seal between the adapter and the filter head. I drained the =
oil, removed the filter, installed a new filter and filled with oil. It =
did seem there was a bit of fuel odor from the oil. I did install a new =
fuel pump two years ago so I will check that later. The fuel pump was =
one of TRF=E2=80=99s =E2=80=9CMade in Italy=E2=80=9D pumps. The =
additional start attempts since then have not produced any oil seeping =
out.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3Dox-d320fa681d-msonormal> <o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3Dox-d320fa681d-msonormal>Back to the start problem. The =
carbs are SU HS6, as on the TR4A. I removed the fuel line at the float =
bowl and gas pumped out during an attempted start. The ignition is a =
Pertronix. When I removed the rotor, it looked OK, but I had a spare in =
a tune up kit and a separate, red rotor, so I tried both with no luck. =
To make sure the battery was getting at least 10v to the Pertronix, I =
put in a new battery that I had. No luck. I removed plug #1, grounded it =
on the thermostat housing bolt and tried a start. I had a spark right =
away and almost immediately the car started up. Ran roughly =E2=80=93 =
there were only three cylinders getting spark.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3Dox-d320fa681d-msonormal> <o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3Dox-d320fa681d-msonormal>I shut off the engine, replaced the =
spark plug, and tried to start. No luck. Very baffling. I also had spark =
on #2, #3, and #4. With #2 removed, car starts, Ditto with #3 and #4 =
removed. Once the plug is back in, the car will not start. Voltage at =
rest is 12.75v (have not charged it again after several start attempts =
over the past few days) and drops to 11v during starter =
engagement.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3Dox-d320fa681d-msonormal> <o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3Dox-d320fa681d-msonormal>I had a new coil on hand so I tried it =
as well. No luck. Connections from the coil to ignition switch and coil =
to Pertronix are clean and secure.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3Dox-d320fa681d-msonormal> <o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3Dox-d320fa681d-msonormal>All plug leads and the distributor lead =
are clean and secure. Battery connections are clean and secure. Battery =
putting out 12-14v. Connections at the starter solenoid and the starter =
are clean and secure.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3Dox-d320fa681d-msonormal> <o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3Dox-d320fa681d-msonormal>I think that is everything I have tried =
to date. Any suggestions are most welcome.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3Dox-d320fa681d-msonormal> <o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3Dox-d320fa681d-msonormal> <o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3Dox-d320fa681d-msonormal>Keith Stewart<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3Dox-d320fa681d-msonormal><a =
href=3D"mailto:keithstewart@bell.net";>keithstewart@bell.net</a><o:p></o:p=
></p><p =
class=3Dox-d320fa681d-msonormal> <o:p></o:p></p></div></blockquote><=
p class=3Ddefault-style><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:#33333=
3'><br> <o:p></o:p></span></p><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p class=3DMsoNormal>** =
<a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";>triumphs@autox.team.net</a> =
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