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Re: [TR] Oil Pan Sealer?

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Oil Pan Sealer?
From: Tony Drews <tony@tonydrews.com>
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2020 19:26:50 -0600
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
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I second the Permatex Ultra Black - although the reason I use it (versus 
other brands or whatever) is that it's stocked at my local Farm & 
Fleet.  I use the Permatex copper colored for other surfaces (like front 
plate to front of engine) but ultra black for pan and timing cover 
gasket.  The Ultra Black is more durable / harder to remove than the 
ultra copper.  THIN layer on both sides of gasket so it doesn't ooze 
into the engine and gum up the works as Alex describes.

I also beat down any bolt hole dimples (due to previous over 
tightening).  If anything, having the bolt hole slightly concave on the 
sealing surface so it can pull back down to flat is preferable to having 
it stand proud of the surface.  Of course that's better done prior to 
the powder coating.  :)

Regards, Tony Drews

On 2/4/2020 7:18 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson wrote:
>
> I have had good results with Permatex ?Ultra Black? gasket maker. Part 
> # 82180. I seem to remember that years ago, there was only Permatex #1 
> which was hardening and #2 which remained slightly pliable. Now, it 
> seems that there is a gasket goop for white cars travelling north with 
> 6 cyl. engines, a different product for dark color cars travelling 
> east with 4 cyl. engines,  etc., etc. The choices on the rack at the 
> local NAPA store can be overwhelming, just like the varieties of 
> Loctite that you can buy.
>
> I have found that many gaskets for tractor restoration are no longer 
> available from anyone and that the gasket-in-a-tube is the only 
> alternative. Sometimes, it is one casting being sealed against another 
> casting ? in those cases, a very small bead is needed. When there is a 
> pressed steel cover being assembled to a casting, you know that there 
> will be much more of a chance for a warped or bent interface which 
> will require a thicker bead. But we all know that many engine and 
> other drivetrain problems are the result of excess gasket goop 
> becoming entangled into suction screens, bearings, oil galleries and 
> other places. Truthfully, I always get very nervous when I am 
> repairing somebody?s tractor or whatever and I see ribbons of blue RTV 
> sealer inside of a compartment. I?m sure that many leaks are the 
> result of deformed oil pans, valve covers, tappet covers, etc. due to 
> a previous ?mechanic? overtightening bolts. ?If 20 ft.-lbs. are good, 
> then 40 must be better? Unless you have access to a granite or cast 
> iron surface plate, it can be difficult to determine if an oil pan is 
> warped. Years ago when I was teaching in the shop, I would use the 
> surface of our big table saw (all cast iron) as a makeshift surface 
> plate when checking small parts for flatness.
>
> Alex Thomson
>
> *From:*Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
> *bill beecher
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 04, 2020 7:32 PM
> *To:* 'Triumphs'
> *Subject:* [TR] Oil Pan Sealer?
>
> Replacing the TR3 oil pan after a fresh powder coating and wondering 
> about the best sealer.  My first thought is a bead of RTV on each side 
> of the gasket, what is the collective wisdom of the List on this?   
> BTW, both surfaces are in excellent condition.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> TS30800L
>
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony@tonydrews.com

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    <p>I second the Permatex Ultra Black - although the reason I use it
      (versus other brands or whatever) is that it's stocked at my local
      Farm &amp; Fleet.  I use the Permatex copper colored for other
      surfaces (like front plate to front of engine) but ultra black for
      pan and timing cover gasket.  The Ultra Black is more durable /
      harder to remove than the ultra copper.  THIN layer on both sides
      of gasket so it doesn't ooze into the engine and gum up the works
      as Alex describes.</p>
    <p>I also beat down any bolt hole dimples (due to previous over
      tightening).  If anything, having the bolt hole slightly concave
      on the sealing surface so it can pull back down to flat is
      preferable to having it stand proud of the surface.  Of course
      that's better done prior to the powder coating.  :)</p>
    <p>Regards, Tony Drews<br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/4/2020 7:18 PM, Alex &amp; Janet
      Thomson wrote:<br>
    </div>
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      <div class="WordSection1">
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
            style="font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D">I have had good
            results with Permatex ?Ultra Black? gasket maker. Part #
            82180. I seem to remember that years ago, there was only
            Permatex #1 which was hardening and #2 which remained
            slightly pliable. Now, it seems that there is a gasket goop
            for white cars travelling north with 6 cyl. engines, a
            different product for dark color cars travelling east with 4
            cyl. engines,  etc., etc. The choices on the rack at the
            local NAPA store can be overwhelming, just like the
            varieties of Loctite that you can buy.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
            style="font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
            style="font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D">I have found that
            many gaskets for tractor restoration are no longer available
            from anyone and that the gasket-in-a-tube is the only
            alternative. Sometimes, it is one casting being sealed
            against another casting ? in those cases, a very small bead
            is needed. When there is a pressed steel cover being
            assembled to a casting, you know that there will be much
            more of a chance for a warped or bent interface which will
            require a thicker bead. But we all know that many engine and
            other drivetrain problems are the result of excess gasket
            goop becoming entangled into suction screens, bearings, oil
            galleries and other places. Truthfully, I always get very
            nervous when I am repairing somebody?s tractor or whatever
            and I see ribbons of blue RTV sealer inside of a
            compartment. I?m sure that many leaks are the result of
            deformed oil pans, valve covers, tappet covers, etc. due to
            a previous ?mechanic? overtightening bolts. ?If 20 ft.-lbs.
            are good, then 40 must be better? Unless you have access to
            a granite or cast iron surface plate, it can be difficult to
            determine if an oil pan is warped. Years ago when I was
            teaching in the shop, I would use the surface of our big
            table saw (all cast iron) as a makeshift surface plate when
            checking small parts for flatness.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
            style="font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
            style="font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D">Alex 
Thomson<o:p></o:p></span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
            style="font-size:12.0pt;color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
        <div>
          <div style="border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF
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            <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Tahoma&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;">From:</span></b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Tahoma&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;">
                Triumphs [<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" 
href="mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net";>mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net</a>]
 <b>On
                  Behalf Of </b>bill beecher<br>
                <b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, February 04, 2020 7:32 PM<br>
                <b>To:</b> 'Triumphs'<br>
                <b>Subject:</b> [TR] Oil Pan Sealer?<o:p></o:p></span></p>
          </div>
        </div>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">Replacing the TR3 oil pan after a fresh
          powder coating and wondering about the best sealer.  My first
          thought is a bead of RTV on each side of the gasket, what is
          the collective wisdom of the List on this?   BTW, both
          surfaces are in excellent condition.<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">Thanks,<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">Bill<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">TS30800L<o:p></o:p></p>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">** <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" 
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