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And isn't it the brass "acorn" that seals the connection at the pump, not
the threads? ISTR that the original "acorn" is a bit longer than the
replacements available which limits compression and can cause a leak. At one
time there was someone making a longer "acorn" to solve this problem.
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Ed Woods
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On 08/10/2020 11:57 PM Greg Lemon <grglmn@gmail.com> wrote:
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Just a couple random thoughts here. One, I could not figure out from
your message where exactly you ended up putting the electric pump. My
understanding is most electric pumps like to push better than the like to pull,
MG and Healey pumps are mounted close to the tank and low in back, that would
be a good place for the new TR electric pump. You seem somewhat concerned
about originality.
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Second, mechanical pump rebuild kits are readily available and not too
hard to fit. There are lots of things I remember about rebuilding my TR
ten years ago, rebuilding the pump is not one of them, so it must have been
fairly easy to do and worked (and has been working fine for ten years).
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Good Luck
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Greg Lemon
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TR250
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On Mon, Aug 10, 2020, 10:43 PM staffel <
<a href="mailto:staffel@comcast.net";>staffel@comcast.net</a>> wrote:
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<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">Several years ago on an
evening club drive in the Catoctin Mts of Maryland my TR4 developed
running/ hesitation issues. Then it got dark & started to rain. Could not
drive the car steady over 45mph. Typical fuel flow clogging issue symptoms.
Fortunately we made it into Fredericksburg and a Motel.</span>
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<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">Next morning, still
raining, the issue was apparent: in the bottom of the Glass fuel bowl- a
pile of 'rust dust'. Cleaned the bowl & nursed the car home 30 miles,
but it kept dying. Fortunately a Jag club friend came by and got his trailer
& towed me home.</span>
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<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">Further examination determined
sediment also in the CD carbs fuel bowls. So much for the fuel pump 'screen'
being 'effective'.</span>
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<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">Also examination of the fuel
pump (original) revealed a weak diaphragm, so while working on the carbs,
ordered a new pump from TRF. </span>
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<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">A few months later got
everything back together. The engine started right up & ran fine. But
no matter how I tried to seal the threads on fuel feed of the original
curved pipe inlet 'nut' to the new pump ( pipe dope, teflon tape, rtv) the leak
wouldn't stop. </span>
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<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">Magnifying glass exam of the
original Triumph Male pipe 'nut' and the female threaded bore of the new
TRF pump revealed a slight thread mismatch - Chinese machining. It was not
Metric either. </span>
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<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">So after talking with TRF, I
decided to forget the mechanical pump and install an electric pump,
ala Jaguar V12s & Jensen Healey / GTs (Lotus 907).</span>
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<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">Well, I installed a couple
of different new electric pumps adjacent to the mechanical
pump.</span>
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<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">They would never 'self
prime'. </span>
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<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">Now, returning to the project. I
removed the mechanical pump, & DRAINED the tank of the old fuel. It seems
that the gravity feed when the tank is less than 1/2 full requires the elec
pump to be very low ( like the original input height of the original pump, to
receive fuel. </span>
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<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">So I am redetailing the frame
(cleaning & new paint) and securing the new fuel line, inline glass Filter
& elec pump right on the frame. This allows the steel feed line from
the tank ( after Dremel Tool cutting) to match the new location of the electric
pump.</span>
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<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">Next will be modifying a new
copper fuel line ( semblance of originality) to meet the elec pump feed right
behind & adjacent to the Water pump. The original copper pipe mated to the
back of the mechanical pump , ran up and forward along the engine at the
cylinder head level to the front of the engine & then across to the
carburetor feeds.</span>
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<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">Finally hope this resolves the
fuel delivery issue.</span>
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<span style="font-family: sans-serif;"><br></span>
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<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">I wanted to share a
warning about the TRF pump supplier manufacturing glitch. So others can not
waste years getting their TRs back to Roadworthy status.</span>
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<span style="font-family: sans-serif;">Obviously not going to drive a
car with weeping fuel near a hot engine. At least on the TR4 & 6s, ( unlike
Jaguar 6s ( have 2) or V12s ( have 3), Jensen GTs ( have 3) ; the exhaust
Manifolds are on the opposite side of the engine. </span>
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<span style="font-family: sans-serif;"><br></span>
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Sherman D Taffel
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Columbia MD and Goldvein VA
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65 TR4 CT 50054L
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( per VTR the last known TR4 produced & shipped to USA)
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Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable
smartphone
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Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable
smartphone
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