Larry
I appreciate your input - my phrase "piece of bent steel" was a bit
light hearted and has upset a few people - sorry. I do appreciate the
importance of the clevis bolt [and in fact every piece of suspension].
I was simply basing my recommendation on the Lola design which has stood
the test of time for over 1/4 century now [up to and including F5000 and
DFV sports racers] and which we have replicated several times. At one
time Lola went to a one piece machined from solid clevis bolt but
quickly reverted to the fabricated design.
One very important element of the Lola design is that the bends in the
steel have a radius and are not sharp corners [which would of course be
stress raisers].
I'll be taking a look at the first Titans I can this spring!
I do agree that if you don't know what you are doing on suspension parts
- then don't.
Derek
Larry Best wrote:
>
> Roger/Derek,
>
> The clevis used on Formula Ford suspension is one of the most critical parts
>of
> the assembly since it locates the upright, and has a direct effect on the
> alignment of the rear of the car. As such, this is one part that you will
>want to
> avoid making yourself. Having been involved in FF for 22 years and having
>been a
> passenger in one with a broken lower clevis, I can assure you that the
>potential
> damage to your car, the upright, and you is not worth the trouble of banging
>one
> out of a piece of bar stock and a bolt.
>
> For reference, Michael Schindlbeck is a recent Midwestern Council of Sports
>Car
> Clubs CFF Champion. Mike has been racing Titan MK6's his whole career and can
> attest to the importance of the clevis, and may be able to point you toward a
> source for these items since they are highly stressed and prone to breakage.
>
> Good luck and stick to 2 wheel (front) steering.
>
> Larry Best
> Chicagoland Sports Car Club
>
> Derek Harling wrote:
>
> > Don't know specific design of Titan clevis bolt but obvious solution is
> > to make one from a 3/8 bolt and a piece of bent steel. Braze or weld
> > bolt through bottom of steel "U" - may need to extend depth of U to
> > accommodate bolt head. You get a better thread form this way as well.
> >
> > You could also braze washers inside side arms to increase rod end
> > clearance but loose washers work equally well - just a bit fiddly to
> > assemble.
> > Derek
> >
> > Karnopp, Roger J wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm in need of the clevis bolt for the rear upright on my Titan MK-6
>Formula
> > > Ford. The bolt or stud end is 3/8 x 24 with a grip of 2.5" and a thread
> > > length of 1.0". A 3/8 rod end fits into it so there is a 3/8" hold and
>the
> > > opening for the rod end is ½".
> > >
> > > The stud end on one my current clevis bolts is bent and will not push into
> > > the upright. I've heard of people repairing these by cutting the stud off
> > > then drilling and tapping and inserting a new stud. Not sure if this is a
> > > safe repair.
> > >
> > > Roger J. Karnopp
> > > MK-6 Titan FF
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