[Bricklin] AMC Rod Bearings

Dennis Gautreau drgautreau at comcast.net
Tue May 5 13:14:38 MDT 2009


Greg,

 

If you haven't all ready done so, get some "plastigauge" and measure the
crankshaft to rod clearance and crank to main cap clearance. 

 

http://www.ehow.com/how_2142943_use-plastigage-measure-clearances.html

 

It has to be done dry with no lubrication. You put a small piece of the gage
between the rod cap and crankshaft and tighten the rod cap to the specified
torque. Then remove the cap and measure with the paper gauge to see what
your clearance is. You may have to shave the bearing or even shim it if it's
out of spec. It's very important that you pay attention to the
specifications of the crank to rod, crank to main, end play, and ring end
clearance. It doesn't take much to spin a bearing if all the new parts
aren't installed correctly

 

You should de-burr everything making sure all edges are smooth.

 

If it's a small block Chevy you are playing with, I'm pretty sure there's a
thrust bearing that has to be pre-loaded when the crank goes into the block.

 

Just remember, everything has to be clean, dry and torque'd properly for
measuring. When you assemble, be very generous with the lubricant. Use
engine assy lube as it sticks very well to everything you put it on and will
stay there until it's replaced with oil during startup.

 

If you've already done this, please disregard this email. I didn't mean to
waste your time, just wanted to chime in just in case it's helps. I'm kind
of jumping in half way through the process here by the looks of it.

 

Dennis Gautreau

901

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:bricklin-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Schroeder
Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 2:42 PM
To: Bricklin at autox.team.net; John T. Blair
Subject: Re: [Bricklin] AMC Rod Bearings

 

The machine shop did all the work on the block and heads, so everything was 

done to those.    The engine still seems a little tight I am going to check 

the gap on the rods at the crank and make sure those are OK.  If that frees 

it up some more I am hoping that help.  I also just got a DVD on rebuilding 

small block V-8's that will hopefully give me a little more insight or 

suggestions to wrap this up.  Still have to get the 700R4 ready and still 

have to spray the lizard skin on the firewall and transmission tunnel while 

I have everything out.

 

Still keep getting sidetracked with other failures with my daily drivers. 

Seems that I just had a head gasket failure on my Toyota Supra and my wife's


Buick Rendezvous fuel pump has failed again.  Have to keep the daily's 

running.

 

Greg 0036

 

> Greg,

> 

> Glad to hear you're making some progress.  Did you run a ridge reamer and

> glaze braker through the cylinders?

> 

> John
Bricklin at autox.team.net

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