[Shotimes] rod bearings
Ron Porter
ronporter@prodigy.net
Tue, 29 Apr 2003 12:58:38 -0400
Kerry,
1. Don't waste your time with the Plastigauge!!! It is not really meant to
be used with an engine in that position (it should be on an engine stand),
and if you have never used it before, it will take you more time, and
probably give you erroneous results that will make you crazy. Besides, as
Paul says, IF you got good results, and IF the crank was "somehow" (very,
very unlikely) out-of-spec, whaddya gonna do about it? The car ran for years
with standard bearings, put standard bearings in it.
2. Forget anything about non-standard bearings....they are NOT relevant to
what you are doing, and have NOTHING to do with how loud, or how worn the
current bearings are.
Put in standard bearings and be done with it!! There is enough other stuff
that will break on your SHO and empty your wallet before you have to worry
about the bearings again.
Ron Porter
-----Original Message-----
From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Kerry Kinion
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 1:34 AM
To: shotimes@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Shotimes] rod bearings
Let me get this straight - are you guys saying that non-standard size
bearings are not available? Or, is it just not worth the trouble of
doing the plastigage thing? Are you saying if I stick standard sized
bearings in the noise will probably go away? And all will be fine - for
awhile??
Help! - before I go diving into this thing!!
Kerry
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul L Fisher [mailto:sho@paul-fisher.com]
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 10:35 PM
To: Bruce Malachuk
Cc: Paul Chapin; shotimes@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] rod bearings
My philosophy was that I wasn't planning on pulling the motor out to
redo the
crank so I just slapped in some stock sized bearings and started it up.
If it
spins, it spins.
The question I have, if you plastigauge the new bearings and find them
out of
spec, what are you going to do?
Paul L Fisher
'93 Ford Taurus SHO Crimson Clearcoat ATX 172K Build date 11/18/1992
- K&N Panel filter, Tokico Struts, Eibach Springs, Dynomax cat-back,
Holley
190lph fuel pump, FPS rebuilt ATX, 26mm rear sway bar, Performance-Plus
Stainless Steel Y-pipe, Delrin sub-frame bushings, Amsoil Series 2000
0W-30
oil, Amsoil Synthetic ATF.
SHO Club member http://www.shoclub.com/
Check out my web site http://www.paul-fisher.com/
Amsoil dealer http://www.paul-fisher.com/oil.htm
Get $5 free from Paypal! https://www.paypal.com/refer/pal=P3XEFFBFUFKN6
Quoting Bruce Malachuk <bmalach1@nycap.rr.com>:
> Just outta curiosity, in replacing the rod bearings if one does it as
a
> "preventative action" do you need to worry about different sized
bearing
> sets?
>
> I'm a little confused now, whereas before this topic came up I wasn't.
I've
> been thinking about doing these on my car just cause I like to get on
it a
> little to much. Plus the previous owner was one to "lug" the car in
5th
> gear
> at really low RPMs.
>
> Bruce
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Chapin" <pchapin@houston.rr.com>
> To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 1:36 AM
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] rod bearings
>
>
> > Many people have had success with just replacing the bearings on the
SHO
> if
> > caught before they spin and do damage to the crank. I have not seen
> anyone
> > post that they have had any problems with replacing the bearings
before
> they
> > spin. When at the point of knocking it is a gamble as to how long
> replacing
> > the bearings will last. If the crank is damaged then you have to
pull the
> > engine to remove the crank. You are now at the point of needing to
do a
> > complete overhaul to make it worth the effort. This if done
correctly
> gets
> > in the $6,000 range really quickly. Not many SHO's are worth $6,000
so
> that
> > is why most just replace the bearings if they catch it before damage
> occurs,
> > about a $100 job. A lot who don't catch the problem in time are
buying
> used
> > motors because of the high cost of a complete rebuild.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "-Newmy-" <thenewmster@shaw.ca>
> > To: "Kerry Kinion" <kerry@kinionfurniture.com>;
<shotimes@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 6:14 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Shotimes] rod bearings
> >
> >
> > > Automatically you should be pulling the crank, machining it, and
> > installing
> > > the matching bearings.
> > > ie-> .010 under on the crank,= .010 over on the bearings.
Otherwise
> your
> > > just looking at alot of wasted time for nothing. Cranks, rods and
> > bearings
> > > all have a very, very close tolerence. I've had it happen before
where
> > > installing fresh bearings onto a crank or rod journal that wasnt
even
> > making
> > > noise, ends up knocking due to the 3 or 4 thousandths of an inch
from
> not
> > > machining accordingly. And with the time it would take you to put
in
> new
> > > bearings anyways, the little extra time is far, far worth it..
> > > Newmy
> > _______________________________________________
> > Shotimes mailing list
> > Shotimes@autox.team.net
> > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
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