[Shotimes] rear valve cover HELPPPP

[Kurt Metros]

Bruce,

What Mark is suggesting isn't a bad idea.  The reason I say this is
because some people have had problems with the lower bolt for the intake
support rubbing through one of the harnesses.  When we had Kegels' 91
apart his outer wrap was worn through and lots of the insulation on one
or two of the wires had worn off.  We wrapped it in lots of electrical
tape, which will take a while to wear through again.

I first discovered this on my old 89 - it would buck when I'd jump on
it....took forever to find, but basically when I would accelerate hard
the engine and consequently the bolt head would jump back and hit a wire
that had all the insulation worn off, short it out and cause the
bucking.  When I'd take my foot off the gas the bolt would come off the
wire and it would run fine.  It was madding to figure out.  I discovered
it when I started tearing everything I could out and disconnecting,
examing, and cleaning as many of the electrical connectors I could.

Just a thought...

Kurt


>-----Original Message-----
>From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net 
>[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark D. Mallory
>Sent: Friday, February 21, 2003 12:37 AM
>To: Bruce Malachuk; SHOtimes
>Subject: RE: [Shotimes] rear valve cover HELPPPP
>
>
>Bruce,
>
>This is NOT the quickest way to get the cover back on, but it 
>is the easiest... especially if you're doing it by yourself!
>
>You should have noticed that the wiring harness (along the 
>firewall side of the engine) gets in the way.  You just can't 
>seem to get the rear right-hand corner in place without 
>screwing up the seal placement.  To get around this you need 
>to break the wiring harness into it's two halves.  You'll see 
>that the harness has a bunch of connectors (4 I think) 
>attached to a metal shield-bracket thingy.  The shield should 
>be just to the left of center along the firewall side of the 
>engine.  Once you separate all 4 connections you can push the 
>harness up and towards the firewall.  This allows you just 
>enough clearance to get the valve cover back on.
>
>The trade off is that you have first disconnect the connectors 
>and then reconnect them when your done.  This obviously adds 
>to the repair time... but you can get the valve cover back on 
>with a lot less trouble.
>
>Hope this helps!
>
>Mark Mallory
>Toledo, OH
>'95 SHO MTX
>
>
>
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net 
>>[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bruce Malachuk
>>Sent: Thursday, February 20, 2003 11:02 PM
>>To: SHOtimes
>>Subject: [Shotimes] rear valve cover HELPPPP
>>
>>
>>Ok so I have Mark's video which I commited to memory for the 60k, I 
>>have the SHOshop valve lash kit (which is kinda weak, not 
>tnough 2600 & 
>>2625 shims), and I can't seem to get my freaking rear valve 
>cover back 
>>on.
>>
>>Any tricks to getting it back in there? I tried for 45 min at 
>different 
>>angles and what not and I finally gave up and decided to hit it fresh 
>>tomorrow.the main problem i'm having is the hump where the cam chains 
>>are. I keep hitting
>>the fuel line over on the end of the rails. I'm thinking of taking
>>that fuel
>>line off to make it easier, but I'm not sure that is necessary. If
>>anyone has
>>some tricks on how to get this back on please let me know.
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>Bruce
>>94 Opal Frost MTX _______________________________________________
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>>Shotimes@autox.team.net
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