[Shotimes] Car will not start after valve lash adjustment (long)

[Donelson Don]

Did u put carb cleanor down the heads .. were the intake bolts too or just on the runners only ?  BIG NO NO

I would check your ground strap that hooks to the back of the intake.

Also make sure u re-attached your DIS connections. The do-hicky on the front of the motor. If they arent properly seated your motor wont start.

make sure your TPS sensor is hooked up and your maff

dond






---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Ken Johnson" <kenjo@attbi.com>
Date:  Mon, 5 May 2003 17:07:55 -0400

>This is not the first time I have pulled the SHO engine apart enough to get
>the valve shims but this is the first time that I have actually removed and
>replaced shims.  The previous time I pulled the valve covers was because there
>was oil in the plug wells of my '91 but at that time I was not interested in
>the valve lash.
>
>Here is what I did to get my car not to start. Did all the obvious things you
>got to do to get to the cams, pulled the hood, intake and valve covers.  I
>used my Helm service manual and the Stage II cam installation video as
>reference.  I got the tappet depressor and holder from the SHO Shop.
>
>Notables
>1) The only deviation from the video that I did not think was a big deal but
>maybe it was.....in order to measure all the gaps I was bumping the starter to
>turn the cams in the video they put a wrench on the fly wheel but since I was
>not doing a timing belt I was not interested in pulling that side of the car
>apart.
>2) When I measured the gaps two weeks ago prior to ordering the shims I got
>about .002" larger gaps than I got when I got back into the car after
>recieving the shims I thought I needed to bring everything back into spec. So
>an exhaust that was .016" needing to be replaced was now coming up .013-.014
>with the original shim.  I found this out because as I was installing the new
>shims the resulting gap was much smaller than I had orginally calculated.  The
>only thing I can think of is engine temperature, Ii believe I drove the car
>from the street into my driveway the morning of the initial measurements so if
>anything the motor was warmer the day of the intial measurements and unless
>there are dissimilar materials in the valve train I can not see why I would
>get a smaller gap 2 weeks later with the same shim with a colder engine.
>Anyway I ended up only replacing 2 exhaust shims when originally I had planned
>on replacing about 5 total shims.  I just could not put the motor back
>together with an intake gap at .004".
>3) New plugs and new wires installed (checked the firing order already and it
>is OK)
>4) Put small amount of dielectric grease on both ends of the plug wire prior
>to installation (have not done this during previous R&R of plugs and wires but
>heard this was a good thing to do, yes?)
>5) New gasket for the valve covers, RTV'd the plug well seals.
>6) New gasket for the intake manifold.
>7) cleaned the intake manifold by hand with carb cleaner
>8) cleaned IAB valve per instructions on FAQ
>9) cleaned intak on cylinder head with carb cleaner - basically a lot of carb
>cleaner all around.
>
>Put everything back together (as far as I know).  On the intial key turn the
>engine starts quickly and dies just as all the other SHOs I have used carb
>cleaner to clean the intake.  Turn the key again and engine just turns but
>sounds pretty normal.  Turn the key the third time and the engine spins. I say
>spin because it sounds more like someone pulled all the plugs out before I
>turned the key this last time.  Engine seems to be turnning faster now and
>with less resistance as if there is not much compression going on in the
>engine.
>
>Pulled the KOEO codes since that is all the car will do now and all I get is
>111 (system pass) and 542 (fuel pump secondary circuit failure).  The second
>code shows some promise but when I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump
>charging so I believe the pump is working.  Need to get my hands on a
>compression gauge.
>
>HELP   !!
>Ken Johnson
>'95 Blue MTX will not start
>'91 Mocha Mocha runs fine
>_______________________________________________
>Shotimes mailing list
>Shotimes@autox.team.net
>http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
>

--
 
dond
91 Super SHO II
 
All work & assembly done by yours truly  : )
 
-3.2 ATX block
-FPS hi-flow heads w/  over sized valves
-Stage I cams
-SHONUT adjustable timing sprockets
-Ported intake & runners
-Ported and extrude honed exhaust manifolds
-Hi-flow catless Y pipe
-Hi-flow exhaust
-BBB
-SHO SHOP T.B.
-SHONUT phenolic spacers
-Quaife
-CAI
-UDP
****
-Cowl hood
-Momo 17x8 rims
-Police grill
-Custom two tone interior
-Complete sunpro gauges
oil temp / water temp / oil pressure
****
-Tokico shocks/Eibach springs
-Polyurethane at all corners 
-Solid-sub frame bushings
-Frame stiffners
-Adjustable rear control arms
-Battery located in trunk for better weight distrubution
****
-12" rotors at all four corners
-Steel braided lines


--