[Shotimes] More A/C questions!

Wed, 3 Sep 2003 17:46:44 -0500

One thing to keep in mind for those considering converting earlier SHOs-
Ford upgraded the condenser sometime in 92 or 93 in preparation for R-134A.
This condenser is constructed differently than the earlier tube and fin
design and is
quite a bit more efficient. A pic is shown here:
http://makeashorterlink.com/?D19521AC5
The more efficient condensor results in colder in cabin temps, lower high
side pressures and less
overall strain on the a/c system.  Not saying it is a necessity to upgrade
but those in hot climates and
wanting best system performance should consider it.

Tim

----- Original Message -----
From: "Carl Prochilo" <gr8sho@prochilo.myserver.org>
To: <stevetatro@att.net>
Cc: "'SHOTimes'" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 5:31 PM
Subject: RE: [Shotimes] More A/C questions!

> Don't let that reason be a detractor.  If the job is done right, you won't
> have to worry about leaks.
> But even if you do decide to go the R134a route, I don't think that you'll
> notice any less efficiency.  The A/C in my son's 95 MTX works very well
> for an 8 year old car.
> --
> Cheers,
> Carl Prochilo
> 92 Ultra Red Crimson - 201K
>
> > Yeah, but then every time a little leaks out and I take it to the shop
to
> > get it topped off, it's $50.
> >
> > The R134a is so cheap, I figured it might be worth a shot.  For $40 I
can
> > get enough R134a, the green neoprene rings, the proper fittings, and be
> > done.
> >
> > Here's the real question.  I understand that the R12 oil isn't
compatible
> > with the R134a.  The best way to get the old oil out is to let the a/c
run
> > for awhile and then vacuum everything, right?  I can't run the a/c for
any
> > amount of time, so I'm not sure how to get the old oil out.  If I were
to
> > replace the compressor, fill the system with the R134a, run the system
for
> > awhile, and immediately evacuate everything (hopefully including the
oil),
> > couldn't I then put in brand new R134a and oil?
> >
> > So many questions.  So little time ;^)
> >
> > Thanks again everybody for the help.  Keep it coming!
> >
> > Steve Tatro
> > Red/Black '93 with 170k miles
> > Cincinnati, Ohio
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
> > On Behalf Of Ron Porter
> > Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 4:11 PM
> > To: stevetatro@att.net; 'Paul L Fisher'
> > Cc: 'SHOTimes'
> > Subject: RE: [Shotimes] More A/C questions!
> >
> >
> > Just get the R12, it isn't THAT bad.....maybe $100 max for a total fill.
> >
> > Ron Porter
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
> > On Behalf Of Steve Tatro
> > Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 3:29 PM
> > To: 'Paul L Fisher'
> > Cc: 'SHOTimes'
> > Subject: RE: [Shotimes] More A/C questions!
> >
> >
> > You think the cost of the R-12 is worth it?  It will cost a bundle, no?
> >
> > I figured I could get a conversion kit with new rings, the R134a, and
the
> > fittings and be somewhat happy.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Steve Tatro
> > Red/Black '93 with 170k miles
> > Cincinnati, Ohio
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Paul L Fisher [mailto:sho@paul-fisher.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 2:48 PM
> > To: stevetatro@att.net; Steve Tatro
> > Cc: 'SHOTimes'
> > Subject: Re: [Shotimes] More A/C questions!
> >
> >
> > You already mentioned less efficient. It is WAY less efficient. Also,
> > there
> > are
> > official Ford kits out there to convert to R134a. Don't just go to
> > Autozone
> > and
> > get their $19.95 kit.
> >
> > If it is just your compressor that is toast, redo it with R12.
> > --
> >
> > Paul L Fisher
> > '93 Ford Taurus SHO Crimson Clearcoat ATX 177K Build date 11/18/1992
> > - K&N Panel filter, Tokico Struts, Eibach Springs, Dynomax cat-back,
> > Holley
> > 190lph fuel pump, FPS rebuilt ATX, 26mm rear sway bar, Performance-Plus
> > Stainless Steel Y-pipe, Delrin sub-frame bushings, Amsoil Series 2000
> > 0W-30
> > oil, Amsoil Synthetic ATF.
> >
> > SHO Club member http://www.shoclub.com/
> > Check out my web site http://www.paul-fisher.com/
> > Amsoil dealer http://www.paul-fisher.com/oil.htm
> >
> > Get $5 free from Paypal! https://www.paypal.com/refer/pal=P3XEFFBFUFKN6
> >
> >
> > Quoting Steve Tatro <stevetatro_shotimes@att.net>:
> >
> >> Okay, here's my plan.
> >>
> >> Since my SHO is officially an old piece of garbage, and it's trade-in
> >> value (based on KBB, Edmunds, etc.) is now under $1000, I want to fix
> >> my a/c compressor as cheaply as possible.
> >>
> >> So, I'm going to have the old R-12 evacuated, remove/replace the
> >> compressor and clutch, convert the fittings to the new R-134a style,
> >> and refill the system.
> >>
> >> Can anybody give me a reason NOT to do this?  I know the system can't
> >> be as efficient, but I'm not about to dump $1500 into it.  Sorry if
> >> you don't like me now ;^)
> >>
> >> Is there any possible damage this can cause?  I have friend who's
> >> taking hands-on car shop classes, and when they needed to replace the
> >> compressor on an old S-10, this is exactly what they did.  I'm not
> >> saying it's the best way, but will it work and not cause any further
> >> damage?
> >>
> >> Thanks as always,
> >>
> >> Steve Tatro
> >> Red/Black '93 with 170k miles
> >> Cincinnati, Ohio
> >>
> >> P.S.  PFish, does your air work?  If so, it may be cost-effective for
> >> me to just buy your car.  I'd probably forget which one is which
> >> though ;^) _______________________________________________
> >> Shotimes mailing list
> >> Shotimes@autox.team.net http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
> >>
> >
> >
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