[Shotimes] brakes

[Adam Parrott]

Steve has some good points here.  Only thing I would have to disagree with
(and this is IMO) is the opening of the bleeder valve.  If you plan to or
are already bleeding your brakes, then it's a moot point.  If you're not
bleeding your brakes (i.e. just changing the pads or rotor), then I would
just open the filler cap on the master cylinder.  If you open the bleeder
screw as a means of escape for the fluid, then you "open" yourself to the
high possibility of drawing air and dirt back into the lines.  By utilizing
the filler cap on the master cylinder as well as the proportioning valve
trick Steve mentioned, you lower your chances of contamination.

I also highly recommend the use of a proper caliper "push-in" tool.  I
believe I purchased mine at Napa for around $20-30.  I don't have the part
number handy, but I do recall it being one of those multi-application
doohickeys (i.e. it works on a whole slew of cars).

Adam P.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Tatro" <stevetatro@netzero.com>
To: <blukorn22@yahoo.com>
Cc: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 13, 2004 8:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] brakes


Kristen,

There's a few things to consider.

First, the right tool can sometimes make all the difference.  AutoZone
"loans" a caliper piston tool.  $35 deposit (IIRC) and you get the entire
deposit back when you return the tool.  It makes the turning and pushing
much easier.  Note that you do have to TURN the rear caliper piston while
you push, unlike the front caliper pistons.

Second, as you try to compress a caliper piston, you're trying to send
brake fluid essentially the wrong way.  That fluid has to have somewhere to
go!  I like to open the bleeder screw on the caliper I'm working on.  This
of course requires some brake bleeding before it's all done, but it's worth
it in my opinion.

Another trick people use is to lower the wheel you're working on.  If the
back end is jacked up higher than the front, the rear brake proportioning
valve will not allow the fluid to pass by (either direction) and so, again,
there's nowhere for the fluid to go.  I've never gone this route, but some
people swear by it.

Third, you could have a frozen piston.  It's rare (by comparison) but does
happen.  If you see rust/corrosion on the piston or if you see cracks in
the boot surrounding the piston, there is a possibility you could have a
physical problem with the caliper.  Luckily replacements are cheap!

I suggest you get the proper tool, open the bleeder, and have at it again.

Good luck.

Steve Tatro
Red/Black '93 with 175k miles
Monroe, Ohio



-- Kristen <blukorn22@yahoo.com> wrote:
I have been trying to change the rear brakes in my 94 SHO, but I can not
get the pistons to push in.  I read about the break maintenance on the
site, but it did not help.  Does anyone have a suggestion on what else I
can try to push the pistons back in?

Thank you,
Kristen


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