[Shotimes] brakes

[Donald Mallinson]

Adam,

Just a few notes:  When pushing in the piston with the 
bleeder open, you are pusing brake fluid out, and the chance 
of getting any air in the system is minimal, plus, it is 
always good advice to bleed the system anyway when putting 
in new pads.

holding upen the proportioning valve on the LR suspension 
and taking off the master cyl cap will have no effect on 
ease of pushing in the pistons.  It is the valving in the 
master cyl and all the plumbing that makes them hard to turn in.

To prevent damage to the pistons, and high blood pressure, 
the best way to get those rear caliper pistons back in is to 
open the bleeder valve.

As for tools, even the best tools I have seen that are 
specifically meant for this job, won't work as well as one I 
made long ago.  I took and old, cheap 1/2" drive shallow 
socket that matched almost the OD of the piston.  Then I 
used my bench grinder to grind down the sides leaving two 
squared off points sticking up.  Now I can use my 1/2" 
ratchet and push in while turning the pistons.  Makes the 
job easy, and that socket won't pop out of the slots in the 
piston like the tools that are sold.

It really isn't necessary to support the LR suspension to 
bleed the rear brakes either, the difference between 
supported and not is minimal.  I used to jack up the LR 
suspension, but one day I got lazy and tried it without, and 
virtually no difference.

Don Mallinson

Adam Parrott wrote:

> Steve has some good points here.  Only thing I would have to disagree with
> (and this is IMO) is the opening of the bleeder valve.  If you plan to or
> are already bleeding your brakes, then it's a moot point.  If you're not
> bleeding your brakes (i.e. just changing the pads or rotor), then I would
> just open the filler cap on the master cylinder.  If you open the bleeder
> screw as a means of escape for the fluid, then you "open" yourself to the
> high possibility of drawing air and dirt back into the lines.  By utilizing
> the filler cap on the master cylinder as well as the proportioning valve
> trick Steve mentioned, you lower your chances of contamination.
> 
> I also highly recommend the use of a proper caliper "push-in" tool.  I
> believe I purchased mine at Napa for around $20-30.  I don't have the part
> number handy, but I do recall it being one of those multi-application
> doohickeys (i.e. it works on a whole slew of cars).
> 
> Adam P.