[Shotimes] brakes

[Adam Parrott]

Very good points, Mr. Don.  As is usual, it rarely does any good to argue
with you guys.  ;)

Steve also had a good point about the Speedbleeders.  Heck, I even have a
set in my garage that I never installed and had forgotten about.  While I
guess my main point applies more to the front brakes than the rears, I've
never really had a problem with my "non-rust belt" rear brakes aside from
not knowing about the piston needing turned-in the first time out.  :)

Adam P.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Donald Mallinson" <dmall@mwonline.net>
To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2004 9:45 AM
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] brakes


Adam,

Just a few notes:  When pushing in the piston with the
bleeder open, you are pusing brake fluid out, and the chance
of getting any air in the system is minimal, plus, it is
always good advice to bleed the system anyway when putting
in new pads.

holding upen the proportioning valve on the LR suspension
and taking off the master cyl cap will have no effect on
ease of pushing in the pistons.  It is the valving in the
master cyl and all the plumbing that makes them hard to turn in.

To prevent damage to the pistons, and high blood pressure,
the best way to get those rear caliper pistons back in is to
open the bleeder valve.

As for tools, even the best tools I have seen that are
specifically meant for this job, won't work as well as one I
made long ago.  I took and old, cheap 1/2" drive shallow
socket that matched almost the OD of the piston.  Then I
used my bench grinder to grind down the sides leaving two
squared off points sticking up.  Now I can use my 1/2"
ratchet and push in while turning the pistons.  Makes the
job easy, and that socket won't pop out of the slots in the
piston like the tools that are sold.

It really isn't necessary to support the LR suspension to
bleed the rear brakes either, the difference between
supported and not is minimal.  I used to jack up the LR
suspension, but one day I got lazy and tried it without, and
virtually no difference.

Don Mallinson

Adam Parrott wrote:

> Steve has some good points here.  Only thing I would have to disagree
> with (and this is IMO) is the opening of the bleeder valve.  If you plan
> to or are already bleeding your brakes, then it's a moot point.  If
> you're not bleeding your brakes (i.e. just changing the pads or rotor),
> then I would just open the filler cap on the master cylinder.  If you
> open the bleeder screw as a means of escape for the fluid, then you
> "open" yourself to the high possibility of drawing air and dirt back into
> the lines.  By utilizing the filler cap on the master cylinder as well as
> the proportioning valve trick Steve mentioned, you lower your chances of
> contamination.
>
> I also highly recommend the use of a proper caliper "push-in" tool.  I
> believe I purchased mine at Napa for around $20-30.  I don't have the
> part number handy, but I do recall it being one of those multi
> application doohickeys (i.e. it works on a whole slew of cars).
>
> Adam P.