[Shotimes] RE: Car won't start after dying

[d.rosicke@snet.net]

If you are in or near CT, my 194K mile 3.0L ran fine when I took it out in
the fall.  No knocks, 120K done at 160K at FPS, didn't burn oil, etc.  I
only swapped it for a motor that made more torque.
Make me an offer!

Dave R



Date: Mon, 05 Jul 2004 16:41:05 -0400
From: Kenneth Epperly <epperly1@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Car won't start after dying
To: shotimes@autox.team.net

First thing to do would be pull the valve cover and check the cams for
damage. If they are bad a used motor can be had from $400 to $650. If the
cams are good then drop the pan and check rod & main bearings. Did you say
that the engine was low on oil or lost oil pressure?
        Ken
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Car won't start after dying


> Well what would be the main failure? I can't really afford new engine.
> Replace some part of the cams, or something with the valves?
>
> Kent
> _______________________________________________
> Shotimes mailing list
> Shotimes@autox.team.net
> http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes

From: "Rick Glass" <rick@pitroadproducts.com>
To: "Steve Tatro" <stevetatro_shotimes@earthlink.net>,
  <Dynon007@aol.com>, <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Car won't start after dying
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2004 19:07:06 -0500
Organization: Pit Road Products

Don't forget the new oil pump it probably needs....

Rick Glass
   Nashville, TN
   SESHOC
'99 Silver 51k (these freakin' things add up fast)
   Flowmaster 40's
   no "pre-muff"/no resonator
   will be Kirk'd in August
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Tatro" <stevetatro_shotimes@earthlink.net>
To: <Dynon007@aol.com>; <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 05, 2004 7:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Car won't start after dying


> Although it's *possible* you may need some major work, there have been
cases where SHOwners have been lucky and only needed to replace the bearings
in situations similar to yours.
>
> I've personally seen crank journals on an engine with a spun bearing and
the journals came out unscathed.
>
> Let's hope you're lucky.  You may get off buying $45 worth of bearings
(NAPA sells the Clevite brand for about that much) and some new pan gaskets.
It's worth a shot, IMO.  While you're in there you may be able to at least
inspect the mains to make sure they're okay.
>
> For everyone else out there, if you see the oil pressure light come on
and/or hear mysterious banging noises, quit trying to drive the car!  Don't
even start it!!!
>
> Take care,
>
> Steve Tatro
> Red/Black '93 with 178k miles
> Monroe, Ohio
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dynon007@aol.com
> Sent: Jul 5, 2004 3:31 PM
> To: leighsm@comcast.net, shotimes@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Car won't start after dying
>
> How hard are rod bearings to do? Can't all that be replaced except the
crank.
>
>
> Kent
> _______________________________________________
> Shotimes mailing list
> Shotimes@autox.team.net
> http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
> _______________________________________________
> Shotimes mailing list
> Shotimes@autox.team.net
> http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes

--__--__--

Message: 11
From: "bjshov8" <bjshov8@comcast.net>
To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Car won't start after dying
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2004 19:30:58 -0500

> Although it's *possible* you may need some major work, there have been
cases where SHOwners have been lucky and only needed to replace the bearings
in situations similar to yours.
>
> I've personally seen crank journals on an engine with a spun bearing and
the journals came out unscathed.

You run a risk of damaging the connecting rod as well- the spinning bearing
wears the outside of the crank journal AND the inside of the rod.  First you
need to look at the surface of the crank journal and the inside surface of
the rod.  If they don't look too "gouged" then you might be OK.  You can get
some strips of emery cloth and wrap around the crank journal and pull them
back and forth (like you would polish a shoe with a long cloth) to smooth
the surface.  If you get the journal smooth then you need to use some
plastigage (or a micrometer on the journal itself) to determine if the
clearances are in spec. or not.

--__--__--

Message: 12
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2004 20:53:57 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)
Subject: Re: Fwd: [Shotimes] Car won't start after dying
From: "Carl Prochilo" <gr8sho@prochilo.myserver.org>
To: shotimes@autox.team.net
Reply-To: gr8sho@adelphia.net

Kent,  You sound like you're in denial.  It is unfortunate that your car
has suffered this problem.  Your description of what happened will hit a
nerve with all of us that have suffered this fate.  I am in this club.

If you are mechanically inclined and can pull a motor, then that is your
next step.  A straight 3.0 litre swap is easiest and a 3.2 litre will be a
little more work.  The "grin" factor for the latter is worth the extra
expense IMO.  If you are in Florida and need someone to do the work, call
Don Donelson.

I wish you all the best.
--
Cheers,
Carl Prochilo
92 Ultra Red Crimson

On Mon, July 5, 2004 2:56 pm, Dynon007@aol.com said:
> Well it starts up. It just clatters hard in the upper section of the motor
> while its running. Its really a loud sound, and making a lot of noise The
> taps
> get louder and faster when you press the gas pedal. If you let off the gas
> the
> car will just stall. But it does start up.
>
> Kent 91+ White MTX