[Shotimes] Front Right Clunk with lots of diagnosis

[Ron Porter]

Probably wearing out also. $20 gets you a set of new ones.

 

When this first happened on my '89 many moons ago, I didn't know what the
noise was. Took it to Midas, and they gave me a freebie. They tightened them
down, but they said that was a temporary fix. Sure enough, within about 6
months the noise was back. It was new strut time anyway, so I had them done
at that time.

 

Ron Porter

 

  _____  

From: Mike Wojton [mailto:mwojton@gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 12:11 PM
To: TechSHO@topica.com
Cc: shotimes@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Front Right Clunk with lots of diagnosis

 

I haven't been following this thread fully, so maybe this has been mentioned
already, or you've already checked it.  My car makes a slight clunk when
turning after slowing down.  I believe it to be my endlink to strut
connection not being tight enough.  I think it moves under the right
conditions and makes a noise.  It doesn't do it every time though.  I
believe that this is the problem because I had the same problem after the
first time I changed the struts, and after tightening the bolts the noise
went away.  The last time I swapped springs and had them apart, I probably
didn't tighten it/them enough.  I haven't done it yet because I need to go
buy a wrench to do it and I haven't gotten around to doing it yet. (read:
I'm too cheap) 

 

Anyways, it might be worth a look.

 

 

-- 
Mike Wojton
Dover, PA

   -'95 White MTX
      '96 Brake Upgrade
      Eibachs (front)
      Dynomax catback

"Avoid the clap." - Jimmy Dugan 


 

On 2/8/06, Eric Wieland <ewieland@mchsi.com> wrote: 

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Michael,
Thanks again for selling me the SSR wheels.  I love them.  They are the best
looking wheels on SHO IMHO.  I have them in storage now to avoid the nice 
Iowa winter we are having (or lack there of).

1.  I have checked the LCA-subframe connection and had my shop check it as
well after the Moog Problem Solver kit was installed.  The ball
joint/spindle connection is tight and there is no play that either of us can

find on either side of the suspension.

2.  I did do inner and other tie rods after the first alignment when the SHO
did clunked badly.

3.  The PS system is my next step.  The power steering system was completely

cleaned and reinstalled 14K ago when I put a new subframe/motor/ATX in the
car.  I am not ruling the rack out, but it seems that I did something when I
put the SHO back together.  I never claim to be an expert mechanic or even a

mechanic for that matter.

4.  I meant to say when I turn right, but we torn down both sides this past
weekend in cast it was a cause and effect situation, but the clunk and
movement occurs when I turn right and unload (to a certain degree) the front

right.

5.  I believe the right wheel bearing is in good shape.  It does not move in
repeated test (12/6 push/pull) and does not give me any issues driving prior
to the tear down.  Again, I am not ruling this out and need to put some more

things apart to check the bearings status.  I will follow your advice about
buying a hub and bearing together.

The reason I am asking for some insight on the CV joints is that the
subframe was removed from the SHO for almost two months (long story) and the

engine, ATX and suspension was suspended in the engine bay while I did
several repairs and installations.  My thought was that I left everything
hanging when I removed the subframe and that one or both of the CV joint got

slightly pulled apart while I am moving stuff around.  I have my doubts that
it would create the condition I have right now, but I am not ruling it out
either.

My SHO's clunking and subframe movement is getting better as I keep finding 
things wrong and replacing them (like tie rods and the Moog kit), but there
is still something loose, worn out or not in alignment.  So I am hopefully I
can figure this out.

Thanks for the help.
Eric