I have been running the DGV setup for two years now. I couldn't pass smog
with my stombergs but had the weber on a series II that was not running so
I just pulled the whole setup including manifold and put it on the 1725
engine. But it does take a very long time to warm up to the point where I
don't have to keep the choke open a little. I don't have any coolant
running through the manifold - it is just left open. However if it would
warm up faster to run coolant through then I might want to try that.
>
>Are you talking of the DGV "progressive 2BBL" setup that bolts to a
>seriec IV solex
>inlet, or the twin 2BBL DCOE webers?
>
>As far as the coolant lines go, removing them alltogether will effect
>the quality of warmup, but will result in more power due to a higher
>density air charge.
>
>My old SII setup "Twin Zenith 36WIP" had a blanking plug in the coolant
>passage under the inlet manifold, and had a single hose coming from the
>water pump instead of two.
>This allowed normal function of the heater, without having to block off
>one of the two
>heater hoses.
>
>
>Jarrid Gross
>
> ----------
>From: palmjeld(at)excel.net
>To: alpines(at)autox.team.net
>Subject: 1725 Weber conversion
>Date: Monday, February 24, 1997 6:23PM
>
>
>
>
>
>Greetings!
>
>I'm in the midst of a Stromberg to Weber conversion for my '67 with a
>1725
>cc engine. For any of you who have successfully completed this
>conversion I
>have a couple of questions:
>
>1) Is it necessary to attach the coolant lines to the manifold as in the
>original setup for the 1600 engine?
>
>2) If so, is it best to run a tee off the block to feed both the
>manifold
>and the heater from separate lines or is it better to run through the
>heater
>core full time?
>
>3) What purpose did the heated manifold serve?
>
>4) Will it really make any difference for my '67 which is only run in
>summers?
>
>Thanks for any help/advice/suggestions.
>
>Paul '67 V
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