Jeff Antosiak wrote:
>
> For the folks out there that are thinking about replacing their
> ring gear bolts, I can't agree enough on the frequency that I've
> seen this problem happen. One variation to Jarrid's fine posting is
> that the axles CAN be removed from the housing without pulling off
> the hubs. It's been a few years since I've done it last, but I recall
> only that the brake shoes and hardware needed to be removed to get
> access to the backing plate bolts. This not only makes it easier
> to pull the axles out, but also makes it easier when it comes time to
> install the axles back in - gives you something to hold on to. "Shoot,
> gonna have to set my beer down for a minute and put the axle back in..."
> If you find that you need to replace the bearing once it's apart, just
> throw it back together and start looking for the puller then! I've also
> found that if you need a little help getting the axle started out of the
> housing, just install the brake drum on backwards, then thread on the
> lug nuts leaving them about a half an inch from contacting the drum.
> Now you can use the drum as a slide hammer - just pull it rapidly
> towards the lugs nuts a couple of times and the axle should start to
> pull from the housing. As the SV was getting a little noisy when I put
> it up for the winter, I'll probably get to try this again in a couple of
> weeks...
> BTW - In the process of looking through the garage for parts to sell, I
> came across a old, broken in two, Rotoflex coupling from my old IMP - it
> had Metalastik written on the side. I think this is one Sunbeam part
> that it'll be o.k. to throw out.
>
> Jeff Antosiak
> (Still cleaning out years of parts too good to throw away...)
> Guinness Rules!
>
> Jarrid wrote:
>
> >
> > Next there is the problem of removing the hubs from the axles.
> >
> > Ramon put out a post e few days past, on a tool that was built by a
> > SoCal sunbeam expert named Dan Walters. Dan has constructed a tool that
> > works well with Tiger and Alpine hubs.
> >
> > Personally I have had good luck with renting quality hub pullers, but
> > wimpy ones,
> > or ones not specifically set up for 4 on 4 1/4 inch hubs should not be
> > used.
> > Universal hub pullers seldom work, and are easily broken by the amount
> > of force required to unseat the hub from the axles.
> >
> > After the hubs are off, the brake line fittings must be removed from the
> > wheel cyls.
> >
> > Remove the e-brake hardware from backing plate as well.
> >
> > 5 bolts and nuts are removed from the (seal) covers. These bolts go
> > through the seal covers as well as the backing plates, and bolt all the
> > above to the
> > axle flanges.
> >
> > The backing plates are removed, and the axle can now be extracted.
> > If the axle is not easily pulled by hand, the hub can be installed with
> > a loosely
> > tightened axle nut, and pulled with a slide hammer, or whatever works.
> > Keep trying, you are pulling the axle splines from the differential
> > gears, and sliding
> > the bearing out of the case, that is all.
> >
> > There are no clever clips or anything to keep the axles from coming out,
> > only the backing plate keeps the axle in the case via the bearing.
> >
>
> > This whole ordeal takes me about 2 hours 6 beers for removal, and 3
> > hours 8 beers for Installation.
> >
> > Jarrid
> >
> >
Just to add a little more to the already excellent advice, if you use a
thin open end to hold the backing plate bolt heads, you can remove axles
without removing the shoes. I just did it about a month ago on a series
V (disc wheel) and have a third member in excellent condition,
for sale or trade to anyone in woe or out of patience and Guinness.
Ron Tebo
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