Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA) wrote:
>
> Alpiners,
>
> Being niether a metalurgist nor a welder, could the brass shifter
> fork in an alpine trans be welded, then re-machined for re-use
> in same transmision?
>
> Brazing?
> Warpage?
> Strength?
>
> My SV all-sync trans pops out of third, and all evidence points
> to a worn third fourth shifting fork.
>
> It was sort of sloppy, but it didnt look too bad to me when I went
> through it, but under high RPM decel, it sometimes pops out.
>
> Any idears?
>
> Jarrid
Jarrid having welded for many years and done alot of brazing , i see no
reason why not.. there are several factors to see here.
1). make sure you can get all of the redisual oil out of the
metal.either by boiling for around 15 minutes using a small amount of
detergent, now you do not have to have a rapid boiling to accomplish
this, but an even heat. rence off and
DO NOT allow to cool to rapid , lay the part on a heavy towel or clean
shop rag. when it is cool enough to handle look very close for any signs
of oil..
1.5) acquire the best quality brazing rod, with flux covering.
2) after cleaning then set the part in a partally closed area (booth)
for brazing. heat up slowly with a torch ,,carfull not to heat in one
area too long, when the part is approx. 200 deg.US then it is safe to
start brazing,, NOTE. if your partis cracked you should be able to see
the crack when you get at the flux point of the metal..
30 you may have to grind slightly the area to be repaired DO this prior
to boiling.
Good luck and cheers.
chuck series ll, B9119821
ore.
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CHUCK NICODEMUS wrote:
>
> Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA) wrote:
> >
> > Alpiners,
> >
> > Being niether a metalurgist nor a welder, could the brass shifter
> > fork in an alpine trans be welded, then re-machined for re-use
> > in same transmision?
> >
> > Brazing?
> > Warpage?
> > Strength?
> >
> > My SV all-sync trans pops out of third, and all evidence points
> > to a worn third fourth shifting fork.
> >
> > It was sort of sloppy, but it didnt look too bad to me when I went
> > through it, but under high RPM decel, it sometimes pops out.
> >
> > Any idears?
> >
> > Jarrid
>
> Jarrid having welded for many years and done alot of brazing , i see no
> reason why not.. there are several factors to see here.
> 1). make sure you can get all of the redisual oil out of the
> metal.either by boiling for around 15 minutes using a small amount of
> detergent, now you do not have to have a rapid boiling to accomplish
> this, but an even heat. rence off and
> DO NOT allow to cool to rapid , lay the part on a heavy towel or clean
> shop rag. when it is cool enough to handle look very close for any signs
> of oil..
>
> 1.5) acquire the best quality brazing rod, with flux covering.
>
> 2) after cleaning then set the part in a partally closed area (booth)
> for brazing. heat up slowly with a torch ,,carfull not to heat in one
> area too long, when the part is approx. 200 deg.US then it is safe to
> start brazing,, NOTE. if your partis cracked you should be able to see
> the crack when you get at the flux point of the metal..
> 30 you may have to grind slightly the area to be repaired DO this prior
> to boiling.
>
> Good luck and cheers.
> chuck series ll, B9119821
> ore.
OOOOHHHH an added note.... when you start to grind the surface you may
want to use a bit of water on the grinder, to help the sloughing of
materilas and then do the filing or machining flat and smooth
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