You wrote:
>
>
>alpines-digest #510 Fri Nov 21 04:05:01 MST 1997
>
>
>
>Date: Thu, 20 Nov 97 09:55:28 EST
>From: johnd(at)eng.insol.com (John D`Agostino)
>Subject: paint
>
>
>>Also, I started the buffing of the paint with 1200 sandpaper, which
>>shouldn't be too coarse, should it?
>>
>>How do I get it mirror smooth?
>
>>Anthony.
>
>In my opinion the hardest part of a good refinish is the color sanding
and
>buffing. Laquers sand easily and have an excellant shine, but just
will not
>hold up very well, after all its a very old technology. Enamels are
more
>durable but don't sand and buff very well, they seem to be too rubbery
to
>take a nice shine. The latest paint I've used is urethane, which
sprays
>like a laquer, dries hard, and can be sanded and buffed to a nice
shine.
>
>I've found that sanding with 1500, then 2000 followed by buffing with
a wool
>pad gives a nice initial result. After a few months the paint will
dull
>a bit as it cures, then give it another buffing and it will look
really nice.
>
>When sanding I use warm water with a little clear Ivory dishwashing
liquid.
>Soak the paper, and use a soft sanding block, use a large one for
large flat
>areas and a flexible one for curves. No sanding with fingers.
>Sand gently following the lines of the car and use lots of water,
cleanliness
>is important. You don't need to get it perfectly flat if you want to
duplicate
>a factory finish, but If your going to spend the time it might as well
be perfect.
>I've used foam pads and wool pads, and wool will work a little faster
since
>it generates more heat, but foam is more forgiving. Hand rub all curvy
and
>sharp areas. You may need to buff an area more than once, and protect
other
>areas from splatter. Buff small sections at a time, and stay away from
edges.
>I plug the buffer into a variac so I can sdjust the speed of the
buffer as
>needed.
>All the paint companies have recommended procedures, and Meguiar's has
a nice
>description on their web site. Just take your time, use the
recommended
>procedure for whatever paint you are using, and it will turn out
great.
>
>Good luck
>
>John
>
>62 SP250 (still looking for an Alpine)
>
>
>
John- Good story on cut & buff. When I restored my last '65 Honda
convert I sprayed 21 Line Glasurite Urethane. I am a better body man
than a painter, so I am always cleaning up orange peel. The majority of
the car I sanded with 2000 grit on a 3M rubber squeegee. Thank god for
small cars. It is also reccommended to soak the sand paper over night
before use. Use a second squeegee to squeege the area while you are wet
sanding so you can see if you are getting that area flat. Ya don't
wanna cut through to the primer or sealer. I buff with a wool pad and
Mirror Glaze #6. I was using Strata 2000, but found I was just wasting
my time and valuable layers of paint.
Miles Series II & dreaming of an SP250
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