I had a similar problem, except this was during replacement. They pressure
tested after fixing a leak and blew the sides out about 0.5 to 1 inch each.
I simply pushed them back into shape and put it back in. Of course it was
easier to do with it already out of the car. A possibility as to why this
happened other than hot water would have been pressure testing the cooling
system. However, too late now.
-Patrick
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-alpines(at)autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-alpines(at)autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Jay Laifman
> Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 1998 8:11 AM
> To: alpines(at)autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: heater core and thermo housing removal
>
>
>
>
>
> On the heater core removal, just a couple of weeks ago, I noticed a
> difference between heater cores that may be the cause of Paul's (and my)
> problem. The core on my SV was very difficult to pull out. It was too
> wide for the hole. I finally got it out after a bit of pulling and
> scraping on the sides of the hole. I had it cleaned out and put
> it back in
> with the same difficulty. Then just the other week, I had the opportunity
> to look at another heater core. It was the same exact build as mine,
> except the sides of the tank did not bow out like mine did. Without that
> bowing of the sides, I am sure that heater core would drop right in. My
> guess is that after 30 years of holding hot water (because certainly the
> heater valve failed years ago), the metal sides fatigued and spread out.
>
> I don't know what to suggest on removal now. You could try to
> somehow push
> the side in a bit so that you can get it out. Then bring it to a radiator
> shop that can remove the sides, flatten them and then put them on
> again. I
> would be worried that the same thing would happen again quickly. Maybe if
> there is a way to reattach the sides in further that would work.
> I believe
> the sides are like two halves of a box - like a shoe box - where the
> outside part pushes on. Maybe the inside part can be shaved down so the
> outside part will rest further in.
>
> Or, you can be like me - totally disconnect the heater since I never use
> it.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Jay
>
>
>
ain
Sender: owner-alpines(at)autox.team.net
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: "Jarrid Gross (Yorba Linda, CA)" <GROSS(at)unit.com>
Bill wrote,
>On a separate note, I finally measured my radiator temperature last night
>in my series II car and found that my temperature gauge is reading 10
>degrees too low. I seem to remember someone (Jarrid?) saying that the
>gauge can be adjusted. I looked at the gauge and the sender, and don't see
>any obvious mechanisms for adjustment. Any advice is much appreciated.
There is no "tweak" per se, but the meter can be made to read closely
to ideal around a given temp band.
The adjustment is in the form of an offset adjustement by shunting either
the temperature sense element, or the meter.
The actual resister value can be found by using a resistor decade box
and the ultimate resistor would be mounted under dash, at the meter
itself.
This will make the readings correct near the temperatures of interest
which should be around 100 deg C.
Jarrid
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