Ron Tebo wrote:
>
> steve sage wrote:
>
> > Here's a question relating to this. I'm not sure I'm even adjusting the
> > valves correctly. The shop manual says, for example, to adjust one valve
> > while the required other valve is "fully open". If you follow this
> > exactly, the valve you are adjusting is NOT fully open. To get it fully
> > open, I must "tweak" the starter a little, at which point the
> > corresponding valve, which is supposed to be fully open, has closed a
> > bit. In other words, if you follow the book, the valve you are adjusting
> > is NOT in its fully open position. Does this make sense? I hope so.
> > What's the opinion out there on this?
>
> > Steve:
>
> I think the answer to your question is that the valve you are adjusting is
> actually on the (bottom) round side of the cam lobe when the reference
> valve is on the peak of the cam lobe. This means that you have a number of
> degrees of slack on either side before the valve you are adjusting begins
> to lift on the cam lobe. So, even if your reference valve is a little
> before or a little past the peak of the cam, the valve you are adjusting is
> still fully closed. (If you use your crank instead of the starter, you can
> be more exact). Does this make sense?
>
> Ron Tebo
You are correct Ron, the only reason the book tells you to look at the
other valves is so you have a point of reference of when the valve you
are adjusting is fully closed. I adjust my valves by bringing the
cyclinder to firing position (using the rotor) and adjust both valves
for that cylinder. It's easier and less work IMHO.
-- Sergio 1967 Sunbeam Alpine Series V 'AJNT 86' still working on it!
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