Re: Contact Cement - Dashes and Dashtops

From: Christopher Albers (Christopher.Albers(at)bubbs.biola.edu)
Date: Tue Apr 06 1999 - 13:31:51 CDT


Jay_Laifman(at)countrywide.com writes:
>The problem I have found with contact cement is, well, it sticks on
>"contact" - and really only "first" contact. So, if you do not have it
>set
>perfectly the first time, your "stuck."

I have found the opposite to be true. I used contact cement on most of
my gluing needs, including the lower dash roll, the dash pad, and my
upholstery. Actually one of the advantages of contact cement is that
you can pull it off and reset it if you work is not lined up properly.
Contact cement takes a very long time to set up and become hard and it
never really is permanent, as you can separate it much later (usually)
without damaging your material.

>>I was very unhappy with the way contact cement worked for the dash
top. I
still have small ends of wax paper pieces stuck under my dash top that
ripped off when I put it on and tried to pull out the paper.<<

Perhaps you did not use the contact cement correctly? It is my
understanding that both surfaces to be glued must have a thin coat AND
THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP IS TO LET THEM BOTH DRY FOR AT LEAST 10
MINUTES. This makes the cement so tacky that, in most cases, the
material can be adhered without clamping. With my uper dash pad I
found that I only needed to clamp the corners and occassionally push
the underside of the front roll. As far as I can tell, it adhered
everywhere it was supposed to. I also found that installing the
defrost vent bezels immediately helped keep the top down, along with
the tonneau studs.

Hope this helps.

Christopher



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