Christopher,
>What is the "static method?" Smitty said to set the >distributor so
>that the end of the vacuum advance is pointing nearly >90º to the engine.
Static method is to set the engine to the desired timing spec (-8btdc) and
rotate the distributor till the points
would begin to open, with the distributor being rotaed in the opposite
direction as the rotor turns.
This is complicated when youn install electronic ign by the fact that you
cant "see" when the points open.
You'l' have to connect a plug and plug wire to the coils
secondary wire and watch the spark to gauge if you have it set right.
This make sense?
As to Smittys advice on where the vacuum adv unit will point, if the oil
pump was installed correctly, and you
follow the rootes prescribed distributor placement, the
vacuum port will run appox parallel to the engine block.
You could rotate the dist 90 degrees, but then you'd
also have to move your plug wires to compensate so that
with #1 cyls valves are fully closed, and the engine is at TDC, the rotor
will point directly at the contactor
for the #1 spark plug wire, followed by 3,4 and 2.
You could of course rotate the dist 90,180 and 270 degrees for where is was
designed to be installed,
provided you rotate the wires accordingly.
>Oil: He suggested 30 or 40 wt Valvoline Racing oil - >not hi-po oil. I do
not know if that has detergent.
Valvoline racing oil is recomended by many cam mfgrs
as a break in oil as it is not too slick, and has
no detergent. I use it for breakin only.
For normal usage, its not that good of an oil.
The cam is the easiest part of a hipo engine to
damage during initial startup and breakin.
With most hipo engines getting larger valves, and
higher rate springs, the load on the cam and lifters
is considerably higher.
Also, the static valve clearances will change rapidly
from a virgin state to a broken in state, and during
this period, its not advisable to drive the car, or
give it any thing more than a high idle.
On my last cam (226/234 duration) the engine got
appreciably noisier during the breakin period, and
ended up needing 3 valve adjustments during its
1000 mile breakin period.
Reasons for the rapid lash changes included loss
of parkerization on both the cam and lifters, resurfaced
rocker fingers breaking in, pushrod balls breaking into
the new lifter sockets ECT.
It is common for race engine builders to remove the
inner valve springs during a breakin in order to
reduce the potential of damage, unfortunately this
is somewhat impractical on the alpine engine, and
would require some very specialized tools that allow
for the valve springs to be fully removed while
installed on the engine.
Enlighten me Christopher, along with your Iski cam,
did you purchase the uprated spring set, or did your
head guy uprate your springs?
If so, pay very close attention to the cam breakin
procs.
Jarrid
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