It's probably in the horn button which is caused by the rubber "spring"
being old and no longer any good. I had the same problem.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ronnie Day" <ronday@home.com>
To: "Roadster List" <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2001 4:53 PM
Subject: Re: one more thing
> >>Paul:
>
> >>The second involves the horn. I can either get the horn to be always on
or
> >>always off. I'm in the computer biz, but gee, this kind of binary action
I
> >>usually reserve to mahines with computers in them! I followed the
sequence
> >>of parts installation from the parts amnual (I thought) but no matter
what,
> >>it is either no horn or all horn, all the time.
>
> >Marc:
>
> >I had a similar thing happen, and it turned out that the wire in the
> >steering-wheel hub (I have a '70 with the big hockey puck cushion) was
> >out of place and being squeezed between parts so that it either
> >interfered with contact or grounded out. the button and contact by
> >pushing them together on the opposite side.
>
> Paul,
>
> I'm guessing when you say on or off you mean if you feed the horn circuit
> power by inserting a fuse, then the horn sounds continuously? If that's
> the case you may have a short between the horn and the horn button on the
> steering column. I don't remember if the roadsters isolate the horns
> physically from ground and run a separate ground wire or if they complete
> the circuit via the horn body. Do they switch the 12 volt side or the
> ground side of the circuit? On the later cars many of the circuits are
> switched on the ground side. Pat, Gordon, Tom, someone help me out here.
> I'd want a wiring diagram so I could literally start at one end of the
> circuit and trace my way to the other end.
>
> Hope that helps a little anyway, Ron
>
> Ronnie Day
> ronday@home.com
> ronnie_day@acd.org
> _____________
> The ACL Group
> Arlington, Texas
> (817) 572-0873
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