You would only need a heated manifold under light throttle conditions
and temperature from just above freezing and colder. Many other cars
had a summer/winter duct where the winter side was getting the air
from next to the exhaust manifold instead of the expensive solution
Datsun used.
Thomas
Chris Robertson wrote:
> This is a topic of debate. Many think that you are better off plugging the
> coolant lines to the manifold. The cooler it stays, the more dense the air
> will be and therefore you can tune for better performance. This is the idea
> of cold air intakes. The Bob Sharp manual recommends this also (he even
> plugged the manifold coolant lines that come from the cylinder head).
>
> Some say that you need a warm manifold to keep the fuel atomized. Plugging
> the lines may cause the fuel pool (these people obviously do not live in
> Texas). I've also heard that the Datsun/Nissan engineers designed the
> manifold this way for a reason (they are certainly smarter than me). Some
> have said that proper coolant flow through the engine requires that all the
> original lines are present (methinks this is hogwash).
>
> All designs involve compromise. The engineers wanted to make sure the car
> was reliable and streetable under various conditions. Bob Sharp wanted
> every possible hp he could get. Since you are building a race car, I say
> PLUG 'EM!
>
> Chris Robertson
> Bryan, TX
>
> >From: CalSpeed@aol.com
> >Reply-To: CalSpeed@aol.com
> >To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> >Subject: Racecar Lightening
> >Date: Sun, 21 Jan 2001 18:46:30 EST
> >
> >Hey folks...
> >
> >I am pulling my motor out to do some "stuff" and was wondering... Since I
> >am
> >removing my heater core can I remove all of the hoses including the one
> >from
> >the waterpump. If I remove that one then I wont be running water through
> >the
> >Solex Linkage. Is it an issue to be concerned with? It doesnt seem to be.
> >
> >Calspeed
>
> _________________________________________________________________
--
Thomas the Swede
2x Silvia 1965
|