Paul wrote:
"May take more than just a cleaning. The rivets may have worked loose.
A good smack with a hammer and punch will tighten everything back up."
So simple.
As you know, I can take relatively simple problems and complicate them
tremendously. The recipe? Start with ignorance - that's very
important. Add a willingness to believe all things I can't see follow
rules that are beyond my comprehension, and top it off with a generous
amount of puzzling over the issue before asking for help.
It makes perfect sense that the location of the resistance would get
hot. My fuse by-pass is undoubtedly also getting hot because it's just
not as good a connection as a proper clip would be. So I substitute a
poor-conducting fuse bypass holder for a poor-conducting clip and see no
change. Okay.
But I still wonder why I'm not getting any resistance showing up on my
ohm meter when I remove the fuse box and test the various input/output
paths. I've got a digital meter that reads out to the hundredth place,
and it gives reasonable readings of resistance for less-conductive
materials but 00.00 or 00.01 for the fuse box (touching one needle to a
connector tab and the other to the corresponding wire coming out of the
box). I got a similar response from an analog meter.
Shouldn't I be seeing consistent resistance on the meter for the bad fuse?
-John
New Hampshire
9laser3@bright.net wrote:
> May take more than just a cleaning. The rivets may have worked loose. A
> good smack with a hammer and punch will tighten everything back up.
>
> Paul Kort
> Ohio
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <SRL311KA@aol.com>
>
>
>>The problem is there is resistance between the fuse clips and the fuse
>
> ends.
>
>>Cleaning with vinegar is recommended and then replace the fuses with new
>
> ones.
>
>>Anytime there is heat at a connector it is telling you there is high
>>resistance at that point.
>>
>>Bill Kenyon
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