Unless you taper the mouth of the stud hole, the contact between the
tapered nut and the wheel will be very small. It will probably work loose
a few times until wear and pressure makes you some machine shop-free
tapered throats.
It's not elegant, but it would work--it's the kind of thing I'd do at the
track when I didn't have a choice and then would never change for a more
elegant solution. With a long winter staring at me, I'd either get
shouldered nuts that fit (call a big wheel distributor, you'd be amazed at
what they've got), modify the wheels to fit shouldered nuts you have, or
have a matching taper cut into the throat of the holes.
-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Kahler [mailto:Brad.Kahler@141.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 5:47 AM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: wheel studs & wheel stud hole diameters
Ok, heres the situation. On Susans Spitfire we're switching from
some heavy aluminum alloy wheels that use the shoulder lug nuts to
Minilite replicas. The Minilites were originally sold to fit a
GT6. I'm not sure what the wheel stud size was for a GT6 but the
Spitfires were 3/8x24 thread size. However, her Spitfire has been
upgraded to 7/16" wheel studs. The stud hole in the Minilite
appears to be 1/2" or slightly larger in diameter. Our choices
are to bore out the Minilites large enough to use shoulder type
lug nuts, this is NOT my prefered choice or what I would like to
do is just use tapered lug nuts and basically center the wheel
over the stud via the taper of the nut mating to the taper on the
wheel.
My question is, if the hole in the wheel is larger than the wheel
stud is this a problem when using the tapered type lug nuts? In
other words, does it matter if the sides of the studs don't make
contact with wheel itself?
Hope this makes sense....!!!
TIA
Brad
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