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Re: How to build a spit racer??

To: EPaul21988@aol.com
Subject: Re: How to build a spit racer??
From: Susan Kahler <spitfiresuz@141.com>
Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 19:20:00 -0600
Hi Pauls!

I am so sorry about the divorce, and about your having to let your neat 
stuff go.  That really is a shame.  At least you're not giving up on the 
neat stuff!  I currently run a 1969 vintage Spitfire, so I know you guys 
will really enjoy yours once you get it going.

Top items I would do to a Spit car to make it a racer (not necessarily 
in order):

GT6 front suspension (bolt-in swap).
Performance rear axles (spendy but worth it for safety -- stock rear 
axles have a bad habit of snapping at unanticipated times, especially 
with sticky tires).  If not, magnaflux the rear axle assemblies before 
using.  
Make sure roll cage has frame attachment points -- not just to body metal.
Accusump - plumb into oil system with one-way valve or tap into sump.
Oil cooler.
Lighten the body by removing unessential stuff (windows and works, 
handbrake & works, door handles and works (you can put in a pin & clip 
to hold the doors closed), wiper and washer assemblies, etc.).
Good oil pressure and temperature gauges.
Good tach.
Drain the oil from SU carb dampers and cut the plungers off.
Use a race driver's seat (stock seat with adjustable back is unsafe) and 
current 5- or 6-point harness.
Mount fuel cell in trunk (no stock gas tanks allowed).

Engine:
Check compression and make sure it is ok, and similar across the cylinders.
Retorque head after running engine.
Be sure to use dinosaur oil for break-in and not synthetic.
Make sure spark plugs are in correct heat range and wires are new or good.
When you dig into the engine the next time, there are all sorts of 
things to do to help gain hp and compression.  Get the Kastner 
competition manual -- it tells you lots of good stuff.

Make sure to check the transmission oil and the differential oil.  Make 
sure the gear teeth look good (you can pull covers on each unit and look 
at the teeth).  Check the u-joints to make sure they have no slop, or 
replace them if you can.  You will need a fully-covered battery box -- 
mine is in the passenger floorboard for weight equalizing (remove 
passenger seat).  

Do NOT skimp on a helmet.  Make sure to get SA (Special Auto -- rated 
for multiple impacts) and not M (Motorcycle).  Think of how much you 
value your head and then buy a helmet accordingly.  Try 
www.racerwholesale.com.

This is all I can think of at the moment.  Please feel free to contact 
me if you have other questions!

Keep Triumphing,
Susan   :)
#42 FP Spitfire Tristan

EPaul21988@aol.com wrote:

>I need to collect a little more info about the yes and no stuff for local 
>running (NM, Colo. Az. Ca. maybe Ok.)  I would appreciate any input from 
>those who have been there nose to nose building a Spit. We're looking for 
>reliable racing to start, speed will come along.  Maybe top ten things to 
>start off with.  We won't be able to afford fancy, large $$ stuff right away 
>so we're looking for low cost, high labor things.  The car is an unmodified  
>67, very solid body, intact, running. We already know we're  interested in a 
>roll cage/bar design, seat belt installation and comments. The car is not 
>home here yet but we will be checking condition of suspension, steering etc. 
>in the next few weeks. What are high probability problem areas of typical 
>wear on these cars ?  The engine was rebuilt at the local high school :) and 
>runs. What to check out before we run it?  They want to just run it till it 
>gives up the ghost.

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