While lots of people like to keep mechanical tachs for originality's sake,
I'd point out that the one that came with your car wasn't made for an
engine with hot cam, lightened flywheel, higher compression, and all the
other stuff you've done to your motor. The response time for standard
mechanical tachs is pretty poor.
I used the Stack vintage tach that fits right into the standard dash.
Looks fine and it's fairly cheap.
I've had a Mallory distributor fail, but generally they work very well. If
I get around to it I'm switching to an MSD system this year and replacing
the points with an optical pickup. I've also had two Mallory distributor
caps die--the carbon brush that connects the center HV terminal to the
rotor seems to stick in it's housing and break off.
BTW, Jack--your carb float cover will be on the way tomorrow--I've
actually managed to package it up and write your address on the outside. I
don't know what the story is--I seem to have a hard time getting things
done lately. I'm blaming the weather. That's my story and I'm sticking to
it.
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert M. Lang [mailto:lang@isis.mit.edu]
Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2003 5:21 PM
To: RJunkermei@aol.com
Cc: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: mallory dist
On Fri, 10 Jan 2003 RJunkermei@aol.com wrote:
> Hi Maybe some one can enlighten me on why all the listings for mallory
> dual point distributors say except tr250 and tr6 ive seen somewhere
> that a jag dist is the same any thoughts thanks Rick
Ther _may_ be two reasons for the listing saying that this dizzy is not
for TR250/TR6. First, there's no tach drive. Second, the dizzy's don't
have any vac. advance/retard. So, they are technically non-emmisions
compliant.
You can make the dizzy fit by drilling the shaft for a proper drive dog.
You're on your own for the tach.
Actually, as far as the tach is concerned, you have choices. You could
convert the front engine plate to accept a cam-driven tach drive. This
would require a modicum of fabrication skills, most importantly - getting
it to seal from oil leaks. Kool, but fussy. Second choice is the old
aftermarket tach. This is easy and potentially inexpensive or expensive
depending on the features that you purchase with the tach. Last but not
least, it is possible to convert a Smiths mechanical tach to electronic,
but it costs $$$ (about $200 for one that I had done). Goto
www.gaugeguys.com (aka Apt Instruments Inc.). NFI. There may be others.
I have the Mallory dual point on bith my TR6's. They work so much better
than the stock dizzy!
rml
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