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Re: TR3A cooling

Subject: Re: TR3A cooling
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2003 23:02:54 EST
In a message dated 2/26/03 3:28:29 PM Pacific Standard Time, writes:

<< Mine's just like Dean's.  Minus the electric fan.  Amen to the shroud 

After reading the various responses, I must be missing something again, as 
usual.  I always thought that it was normal to blow some coolant from time to 
time.  I have rubber tubing running from the overflow to a gallon lacquer 
thinner can.  A hole was drilled in the cap and a copper tube soldered in 
which almost reaches the bottom of the can.  A little water is kept in the 
bottom of the can with a vent hole in the top of the can.  

When the coolant pressure increases above the radiator cap pressure, coolant 
is blown out into the gallon can.  On the straights or cooler conditions when 
more air is being shoved through the radiator, the water is sucked back into 
the radiator.  If everything is tight, the water level ends up where it was 
after the race when the engine is cool enough for removing the radiator cap.

I was using a 7 LB cap, and am now using a 15 lm cap, after changing to 
shorter cap necks.  Also, I assume that everyone using the metal nose 
assembly has shrouded off the open areas on the sides and top of the 
radiator.  You then make two cuts straight back in the metal which slices off 
about one-third of the bottom of the radiator, shove the edge of the metal 
down to the bottom of the radiator, and pop rivet in some aluminum to close 
in both side openings.

As others have mentioned, I have been using a restrictor washer with the 
bypass blocked.  I am now trying the Ken Galanders water pump, and a 160 F 
Chevy thermostat with two 1/8" holes drilled beside the diaphragm.  I should 
go to a better radiator, but have heard of various people going to aluminum 
just to save weight since copper has a better heat transfer coefficient.  The 
newer radiators must have better flow paths.

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