Requiring the kill switch to shut down the
engine makes sense to me on the issue of
safety alone. If properly wired, the kill switch should
minimally serve as a master on/off for ignition and any
electric fuel pump(s).
If turning off a kill switch doesn't shut down the engine
because an alternator is still providing electric power to
the ignition/fuel pumps, then the kill switch is not wired
correctly...IMHO.
Just my .02
Cheers,
Bill Sohl
----- Original Message -----
From: "Henry Frye" <henry@henryfrye.com>
To: <fot@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2005 12:13 AM
Subject: Re: Kill Switches
> At 11:31 PM 04/23/2005 -0400, WEmery7451@aol.com wrote:
>>In a message dated 4/23/05 4:04:57 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
>>cartravel@pobox.com writes:
>>
>><< CVAR tech inspectors do require you to rev the engine to 3,000 and flip
>>the kill switch. If it doesn't die, your car fails.>>
>>
>>I wonder if he will pay for any damages that may occur?
>
> My kill switch just shuts off the ground. No fancy kill switch with
> alternator contacts here.
>
> If tech inspectors ask to see the car shut off by the kill switch, I
> refuse. I simply tell the tech inspector the kill switch will not stop the
> engine, the alternator will keep it running.
>
> Apparently, this is a no-go item with SCCA, but not the Vintage groups I
> run with. Hasn't been an issue. I have received annual tech's from VSCDA
> and VDCA, both asked about the kill switch stopping the engine. Both were
> made aware my car is wired this way.
>
> When the kill switch dies on my car, I will replace it with one with a
> second set of contacts for the alternator. But, from what I have heard
> about a bad batch of kill switches, I'm not messing with something I know
> works fine.
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