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Re: [Fot] Starter problem / Clutch issue

To: Scott Janzen <sjanzen@me.com>, "fot@autox.team.net" <fot@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Fot] Starter problem / Clutch issue
From: Edward Dunn <edunn@qualityfueltrailers.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 13:02:40 -0700
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Thread-topic: [Fot] Starter problem / Clutch issue
Clutch operates normally when cool.  After some laps, it starts not fully
disengaging, to the point when I pull into the pits I can't get into first or
second gear.  Then once it cools down, it's fine again.  How about drilling
some 1" cooling holes in the bell housing?  Can't really use a transmission
cooler like on an automatic.  Car sits really low, plus exhaust running right
underneath, I imagine lots of hot air, not much cooling air.  Also, I've got
the exhaust running straight out the rear.  Should it be exiting the side, in
front of the right rear tire?




From: Scott Janzen [mailto:sjanzen@me.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2012 12:54 PM
To: Edward Dunn
Cc: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Starter problem / Clutch issue

I use the high -torque starter I got from Ted -it's been good for about 6
years now, despite the fact that the insulation on exposed wiring is well
cooked (jinxed myself now, of course).
My headers are about 1/4" away from the starter -close enough that I took a
ball peen hammer to one of the tubes to increase the clearance a hair.   I
have the starter wrapped in one of those aluminum blankets, and the header
right near the starter wrapped with tape from Pegasus.
I'd get a quality starter from a known source -there have been threads about
the variability of quality on these before.

Clutch - could be boiling fluid.  Try re-routing the line.  The slave is on
the top right of the bell housing, so there should be no reason to bring the
line close to the header - I had a flexible one that just came across the top
of the b-housing from the master.  Might be another clutch issue - describe
the symptoms more?

On Apr 11, 2012, at 3:03 PM, Edward Dunn wrote:

First, is there a search function in the archives, etc? I hate asking a
question that may have already been answered.

On my GT6, the hi-torque starter is intermittent, and it seems to be heat
related but not always...  I had it rebuilt by a reputable auto electric
shop,
but no improvement. Checked ground, solenoid, etc. I was told by a FOT racer
that the hi-torque starters are seldom properly rebuilt, and should be simply
replaced instead of rebuilt.

Mr. Kastner told me they used to have a bucket of water standing by in the
pit
to pour on the starter so it would work.  The car has a TSI header, which
really wraps around the starter bringing plenty of heat to it. Ted suggested
I
wrap the header, which I will do. Anyone use the starter insulating wraps as
seen on Jeg's etc? Any other ideas on keeping the starter functioning?

In addition, the clutch has trouble engaging when hot.  The clutch line is
pretty close to the header as well, and I suspect it's getting too hot?
Insulate the clutch line?  I just rebuilt the clutch master & slave, and am
using Castrol LMA fluid. What with the roll cage, it's real interesting
getting down in there to bleed.

Apologies if these questions are too simplistic, but oh well...

Ed
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