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The GT6 crank can withstand high RPMs, unlike the stroked TR6 crank. A =
stock crank, balanced, nitrided and straight, is good for over 7,000 rpm =
with no issues.
On Dec 9, 2015, at 9:47 AM, John Hasty wrote:
No doubt that quality rods and crank are a must have for a race motor. =
Don't know what kind of cranks you GT6 guys use, but if you go for a =
billet crank I suggest you have the rod journals sized to fit good old =
American V8's...the choice of good rods in what ever length you want is =
infinite and at half the price of Carillo's...not to mention that the =
choice of bearings is also infinite...we are using Manley H beam rods =
from a Ford modular engine in one motor and Scat H beam chevy rods in =
the other one and have had no problems turning the TR3 motor to 6500 and =
occasionally 7000.
-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott Janzen
Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2015 9:07 AM
To: Spitfire Racing
Cc: FOT list
Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 Connecting rods
I think it depends on what you want to do with the car. Both my race =
motors have Carillo rods in them - one component I have no worries =
about. Beware those pesky little bolts on the Carillos - use a stretch =
gauge, not a torque wrench, cuz if you over-stretch one they are about =
$45 each, but I digress.
My motor sees 7,000 rpm five times a lap at Summit Point, so in a 12 lap =
race that's 60 cycles to redline over about 20 minutes. I like having =
parts I can rely on. There are enough other weak points in a GT6 to =
fix!
When I originally got this car, it had six beautifully lightened, =
balanced and shot peened stock rods with ARP bolts. You could do that =
for a lot less money and probably be fine for 6,000 rpm regularly.
So, reliable competitive race car (Carillo), or fast street car/back =
half of the pack race car (improved stock), or fast race car if it =
doesn't blow up first (Chinese)? Keep in mind that back in the day they =
ran stock rods to 8,000 rpm.
If you are on a budget (we all are at some level, right?) and want to =
get on the track sooner than later - go for "stock" and know the =
limitations of the engine. You can always upgrade later- that engine =
will not be "one and done", so you will have it apart every other year =
at a minimum and can swap out rods.
But I agree with Russ- don't buy the knockoffs and delude yourself that =
they are as good as the real stuff- that will just lead to catastrophe =
down the road.
Sent from my mobile device
On Dec 9, 2015, at 8:02 AM, Spitfire Racing =
<spitfire_racing@twcny.rr.com> wrote:
A properly built and modified race engine represents a mighty investment =
not only of dollars but of time. Is that really where you want to pinch =
pennies?
After all, with the exception of pistons and crank that is one of the =
primary components and all it takes is one piece inside an engine to =
reduce all your work and investment to nothing more than scrap metal. =
One seized valve, or substandard bolt even can be a disaster. It doesn't =
take much.
Realize all the ancillary invested expenditures that are also at risk =
like a weekend's entry fee you lose in an engine failure; the cost of =
time off from work to go to a race weekend; the cost of food and lodging =
for the race outing and the cost of just getting there. When asked, I =
usually advise folks to figure a race weekend is ~$1000 minimum when you =
roll all in.
A number of racers have run Pauter rods as stated before by Bill and =
these do present a less expensive alternative. I had the opportunity to =
rebuild an engine last year with Pauter rods and they were quite =
substantial and were well designed, constructed and balanced. Personally =
I have seen far too many Chinese knock-offs; reproductions (call them =
what you will), that fail to come close to the parts they try to mimic.
I suggest you perhaps delay your build until your war chest allows for =
top quality internals. Do it once and do it right the first time and =
reduce the potential for disappointing expensive disaster.
Russ Moore
Spitfire #49
-----Original Message-----
From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jamie
Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2015 6:22 AM
To: McKearn McKearn
Cc: FOT list
Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 Connecting rods
Although I was initially very wary, they have worked well for over 1,000 =
race miles in our (horror) MGB engine.
Jamie Palmer
> On Dec 8, 2015, at 11:52 PM, McKearn McKearn <mckearn2@gmail.com> =
wrote:
>=20
> Hi Gents.
> I am looking for feedback on the MaxSpeeding connecting rods for GT6.
Can't afford Carrillos and I'm hoping these are good. Also am still =
searching for an aluminum flywheel without having something custom made. =
and would like input on what type of clutch to use as well . Lets call =
it a race car for the sake of argument....
> Thanks. P.J.
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>=20
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr6driver@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty@mhc-law.com
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<html><head></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; ">The =
GT6 crank can withstand high RPMs, unlike the stroked TR6 crank. A =
stock crank, balanced, nitrided and straight, is good for over 7,000 rpm =
with no issues.<div><br><div><div>On Dec 9, 2015, at 9:47 AM, John Hasty =
wrote:</div><br class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div>No doubt that =
quality rods and crank are a must have for a race motor. Don't =
know what kind of cranks you GT6 guys use, but if you go for a billet =
crank I suggest you have the rod journals sized to fit good old American =
V8's...the choice of good rods in what ever length you want is infinite =
and at half the price of Carillo's...not to mention that the choice of =
bearings is also infinite...we are using Manley H beam rods from a Ford =
modular engine in one motor and Scat H beam chevy rods in the other one =
and have had no problems turning the TR3 motor to 6500 and occasionally =
7000.<br><br>-----Original Message-----<br>From: Fot =
[mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott Janzen<br>Sent: =
Wednesday, December 09, 2015 9:07 AM<br>To: Spitfire Racing<br>Cc: FOT =
list<br>Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 Connecting rods<br><br>I think it depends =
on what you want to do with the car. Both my race motors have =
Carillo rods in them - one component I have no worries about. Beware =
those pesky little bolts on the Carillos - use a stretch gauge, not a =
torque wrench, cuz if you over-stretch one they are about $45 each, but =
I digress.<br><br>My motor sees 7,000 rpm five times a lap at Summit =
Point, so in a 12 lap race that's 60 cycles to redline over about 20 =
minutes. I like having parts I can rely on. There are enough other =
weak points in a GT6 to fix!<br><br>When I originally got this car, it =
had six beautifully lightened, balanced and shot peened stock rods with =
ARP bolts. You could do that for a lot less money and probably be fine =
for 6,000 rpm regularly.<br><br>So, reliable competitive race car =
(Carillo), or fast street car/back half of the pack race car (improved =
stock), or fast race car if it doesn't blow up first (Chinese)? =
Keep in mind that back in the day they ran stock rods to 8,000 =
rpm.<br>If you are on a budget (we all are at some level, right?) and =
want to get on the track sooner than later - go for "stock" and know the =
limitations of the engine. You can always upgrade later- that =
engine will not be "one and done", so you will have it apart every other =
year at a minimum and can swap out rods.<br>But I agree with Russ- don't =
buy the knockoffs and delude yourself that they are as good as the real =
stuff- that will just lead to catastrophe down the road.<br><br>Sent =
from my mobile device<br><br>On Dec 9, 2015, at 8:02 AM, Spitfire Racing =
<<a =
href=3D"mailto:spitfire_racing@twcny.rr.com";>spitfire_racing@twcny.rr.com<=
/a>> wrote:<br><br>A properly built and modified race engine =
represents a mighty investment not only of dollars but of time. Is that =
really where you want to pinch pennies?<br>After all, with the exception =
of pistons and crank that is one of the primary components and all it =
takes is one piece inside an engine to reduce all your work and =
investment to nothing more than scrap metal. One seized valve, or =
substandard bolt even can be a disaster. It doesn't take =
much.<br>Realize all the ancillary invested expenditures that are also =
at risk like a weekend's entry fee you lose in an engine failure; the =
cost of time off from work to go to a race weekend; the cost of food and =
lodging for the race outing and the cost of just getting there. When =
asked, I usually advise folks to figure a race weekend is ~$1000 minimum =
when you roll all in.<br><br>A number of racers have run Pauter rods as =
stated before by Bill and these do present a less expensive alternative. =
I had the opportunity to rebuild an engine last year with Pauter rods =
and they were quite substantial and were well designed, constructed and =
balanced. Personally I have seen far too many Chinese knock-offs; =
reproductions (call them what you will), that fail to come close to the =
parts they try to mimic.<br>I suggest you perhaps delay your build until =
your war chest allows for top quality internals. Do it once and do it =
right the first time and reduce the potential for disappointing =
expensive disaster.<br><br>Russ Moore<br>Spitfire =
#49<br><br>-----Original Message-----<br>From: Fot =
[mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jamie<br>Sent: =
Wednesday, December 09, 2015 6:22 AM<br>To: McKearn McKearn<br>Cc: FOT =
list<br>Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 Connecting rods<br><br>Although I was =
initially very wary, they have worked well for over 1,000 race miles in =
our (horror) MGB engine.<br><br>Jamie Palmer<br><br><br><blockquote =
type=3D"cite">On Dec 8, 2015, at 11:52 PM, McKearn McKearn <<a =
href=3D"mailto:mckearn2@gmail.com";>mckearn2@gmail.com</a>> =
wrote:<br></blockquote><blockquote =
type=3D"cite"><br></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite">Hi =
Gents.<br></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite"> I am looking for =
feedback on the MaxSpeeding connecting rods for =
GT6.<br></blockquote>Can't afford Carrillos and I'm hoping these are =
good. Also am still searching for an aluminum flywheel without having =
something custom made. and would like input on what type of clutch to =
use as well . Lets call it a race car for the sake of =
argument....<br><blockquote type=3D"cite"> =
&n=
bsp; &nbs=
p; Thanks. =
P.J.<br></blockquote><blockquote =
type=3D"cite">_______________________________________________<br></blockqu=
ote><blockquote type=3D"cite"><a =
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