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Thank you Hank! Your advice is right on. I found a black wire, disconnected=
and hiding behind the tach. Connected the black wire, replaced the two burn=
ed wires and everything now works. The volt meter still but maybe it=E2=80=99=
s fried. Is there a way to test it?
Thanks again!!
Price Lindsay
Cell: 630-841-6300
Email: 050.rpl@gmail.com
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jun 14, 2021, at 1:42 PM, gradea1@charter.net wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BFPrice- Oh, someone has been messing with the original wiring. The=
black wires on the fixing post of the tach MUST GO TO GROUND. The red/white=
is for the panel lights, POSITIVE. There is an additional black wire which i=
s for the panel GROUND. The panel switch is R/W & R (no black). The way it=
is currently wired creates a short to the battery-thus your smoke and burne=
d wires.
>=20
> Check your wiring diagram in the workshop or owners book and INSURE that y=
ou know where each one is connected. The panel switch is just a knife break i=
n the red wire and should NEVER GO TO GROUND. Consider replacing those burne=
d wires. Then check the wiring of the voltmeter and assemble as Kees has de=
scribed. Hank
>=20
> -----------------------------------------
>=20
> From: "R. Lindsay via Healeys"=20
> To: "Kees Oudesluijs", "Healey List"
> Cc:=20
> Sent: Monday June 14 2021 9:26:47AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electric Issue
>=20
> Thanks Kees.=20
>=20
> I have 3 wires to the volt meter- red/white to the bulb, black to the righ=
t terminal and green to the left terminal. Are you suggesting putting the gr=
een and black wires together on a terminal?
>=20
> On the wiring diagram, there are =E2=80=9Ctriangles=E2=80=9D where the bla=
ck wires attach to the gauges , grounding points. On the tach, it appears t=
he grounding point is connected to a red/white wire going to the panel switc=
h and the two black are connected elsewhere. When messing with the wires yes=
terday I produced a little =E2=80=9Csmoke=E2=80=9D and found the insulation o=
n red wire from the panel switch to the lighting switch, and the two red/whi=
te wires between the tach and panel switch were melted.=20
>=20
> It seems the issue I am having is between the lighting switch, the panel s=
witch and the tach, hence the burned wires (the tach shuts down with the lig=
hts and panel switch are on, but runs when the panel switch is on but the li=
ghts are off).=20
>=20
> What do you think?
>=20
> Price Lindsay
>=20
> Cell: 630-841-6300
> Email: 050.rpl@gmail.com
>=20
> Sent from my iPhone
>=20
> On Jun 14, 2021, at 3:48 AM, Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote=
:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> Hi Price,
>=20
>=20
>=20
> If you did a straight swap of the Ammeter with the Voltmeter you will have=
all sorts of problems.
>=20
> The full current is passing through an Ammeter (no resistance), however if=
you replace the ammeter with a Voltmeter (very high resistance) no current c=
an pass to operate the rest of the system.
>=20
> You have to connect together the two wires that were on the Ammeter. The p=
lus side of the voltmeter you have connect to the accesory or ignition termi=
nal of the ignition switch. The negative side is connected to any suitable e=
arth point.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Kees Oudesluijs
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Thank you Hank! Your advice is right o=
n. I found a black wire, disconnected and hiding behind the tach. Connected t=
he black wire, replaced the two burned wires and everything now works. The v=
olt meter still but maybe it=E2=80=99s fried. Is there a way to test it?<div=
><br></div><div>Thanks again!!<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Price Lindsay<div><br=
></div><div>Cell: 630-841-6300</div><div>Email: 050.rpl@gmail.com</div><div>=
<br></div><div>Sent from my iPhone</div></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquo=
te type=3D"cite">On Jun 14, 2021, at 1:42 PM, gradea1@charter.net wrote:<br>=
<br></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BFP=
rice- Oh, someone has been messing with the original wiring. The black wires=
on the fixing post of the tach MUST GO TO GROUND. The red/white is for the p=
anel lights, POSITIVE. There is an additional black wire which is for the pa=
nel GROUND. The panel switch is R/W & R (no black). The way i=
t is currently wired creates a short to the battery-thus your smoke and burn=
ed wires.<div><br></div><div>Check your wiring diagram in the workshop or ow=
ners book and INSURE that you know where each one is connected. The panel sw=
itch is just a knife break in the red wire and should NEVER GO TO GROUND. Co=
nsider replacing those burned wires. Then check the wiring of the volt=
meter and assemble as Kees has described. Hank<br><br><div class=3D"reply-ne=
w-signature"></div><p>-----------------------------------------</p>From: "R.=
Lindsay via Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>To: "Kees Oudesluijs", "He=
aley List"<br>Cc: <br>Sent: Monday June 14 2021 9:26:47AM<br>Subject: Re: [H=
ealeys] Electric Issue<br><br>
Thanks Kees.
<div><br></div>
<div>I have 3 wires to the volt meter- red/white to the bulb, black
to the right terminal and green to the left terminal. Are you
suggesting putting the green and black wires together on a
terminal?</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>On the wiring diagram, there are =E2=80=9Ctriangles=E2=80=9D where the b=
lack
wires attach to the gauges , grounding points. On the tach,
it appears the grounding point is connected to a red/white wire
going to the panel switch and the two black are connected
elsewhere. When messing with the wires yesterday I produced a
little =E2=80=9Csmoke=E2=80=9D and found the insulation on red wire from the=
panel
switch to the lighting switch, and the two red/white wires between
the tach and panel switch were melted. </div>
<div><br></div>
<div>It seems the issue I am having is between the lighting switch,
the panel switch and the tach, hence the burned wires (the tach
shuts down with the lights and panel switch are on, but runs when
the panel switch is on but the lights are off). </div>
<div><br></div>
<div>What do you think?<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Price Lindsay
<div><br></div>
<div>Cell: 630-841-6300</div>
<div>Email: 050.rpl@gmail.com</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>Sent from my iPhone</div>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote>On Jun 14, 2021, at 3:48 AM, Kees
Oudesluijs <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:<br><br></blockquote>
</div>
<blockquote>
<div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF
<p>Hi Price,<br></p>
<p><br></p>
<p>If you did a straight swap of the Ammeter with the Voltmeter you
will have all sorts of problems.<br></p>
<p>The full current is passing through an Ammeter (no resistance),
however if you replace the ammeter with a Voltmeter (very high
resistance) no current can pass to operate the rest of the
system.<br></p>
<p>You have to connect together the two wires that were on the
Ammeter. The plus side of the voltmeter you have connect to the
accesory or ignition terminal of the ignition switch. The negative
side is connected to any suitable earth point.<br></p>
<p><br></p>
<p>Kees Oudesluijs<br></p>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</healeys@autox.team.net></div>
</div></blockquote></div></body></html>=
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