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Re: [Healeys] Electric Issue

To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electric Issue
From: "R. Lindsay" <050.rpl@gmail.com>
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2021 15:26:04 -0400
Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CY4PR13MB11434965667E40D49E7AC973A5309@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
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Thanks Bill.  Yes i am running an alternator.  I hooked it up to the battery=
 - no reading.  Probably fried, will get another.

Price Lindsay

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 14, 2021, at 10:28 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> A volt meter will read the condition of the battery  and as such any chang=
es will be small and gradual, unlike and amp meter which tracks the balance o=
f the output of the charging system against the drain on the battery which c=
an be quite a bit more extreme.. I assume you have switched to an alternator=
 and thus to a battery condition (volt) meter.=20
>=20
> Bill Lawrence
> BN11 #554
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of R. Lindsay <05=
0.rpl@gmail.com>
> Sent: Monday, June 14, 2021 11:10 PM
> To: gradea1@charter.net <gradea1@charter.net>
> Cc: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electric Issue
> =20
> Thank you Hank!  Your advice is right on. I found a black wire, disconnect=
ed and hiding behind the tach. Connected the black wire, replaced the two bu=
rned wires and everything now works. The volt meter still but maybe it=E2=80=
=99s fried. Is there a way to test it?
>=20
> Thanks again!!
>=20
> Price Lindsay
>=20
> Cell: 630-841-6300
> Email: 050.rpl@gmail.com
>=20
> Sent from my iPhone
>=20
>> On Jun 14, 2021, at 1:42 PM, gradea1@charter.net wrote:
>>=20
>> =EF=BB=BFPrice- Oh, someone has been messing with the original wiring. Th=
e black wires on the fixing post of the tach MUST GO TO GROUND. The red/whit=
e is for the panel lights, POSITIVE. There is an additional black wire which=
 is for the panel GROUND. The panel switch is R/W & R  (no black).  The way i=
t is currently wired creates a short to the battery-thus your smoke and burn=
ed wires.
>>=20
>> Check your wiring diagram in the workshop or owners book and INSURE that y=
ou know where each one is connected. The panel switch is just a knife break i=
n the red wire and should NEVER GO TO GROUND. Consider replacing those burne=
d wires.  Then check the wiring of the voltmeter and assemble as Kees has de=
scribed. Hank
>>=20
>> -----------------------------------------
>>=20
>> From: "R. Lindsay via Healeys"=20
>> To: "Kees Oudesluijs", "Healey List"
>> Cc:=20
>> Sent: Monday June 14 2021 9:26:47AM
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electric Issue
>>=20
>> Thanks Kees.=20
>>=20
>> I have 3 wires to the volt meter- red/white to the bulb, black to the rig=
ht terminal and green to the left terminal. Are you suggesting putting the g=
reen and black wires together on a terminal?
>>=20
>> On the wiring diagram, there are =E2=80=9Ctriangles=E2=80=9D where the bl=
ack wires attach to the gauges , grounding points.  On the tach, it appears t=
he grounding point is connected to a red/white wire going to the panel switc=
h and the two black are connected elsewhere. When messing with the wires yes=
terday I produced a little =E2=80=9Csmoke=E2=80=9D and found the insulation o=
n red wire from the panel switch to the lighting switch, and the two red/whi=
te wires between the tach and panel switch were melted.=20
>>=20
>> It seems the issue I am having is between the lighting switch, the panel s=
witch and the tach, hence the burned wires (the tach shuts down with the lig=
hts and panel switch are on, but runs when the panel switch is on but the li=
ghts are off).=20
>>=20
>> What do you think?
>>=20
>> Price Lindsay
>>=20
>> Cell: 630-841-6300
>> Email: 050.rpl@gmail.com
>>=20
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>=20
>> On Jun 14, 2021, at 3:48 AM, Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrot=
e:
>>=20
>> =EF=BB=BF
>> Hi Price,
>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>> If you did a straight swap of the Ammeter with the Voltmeter you will hav=
e all sorts of problems.
>>=20
>> The full current is passing through an Ammeter (no resistance), however i=
f you replace the ammeter with a Voltmeter (very high resistance) no current=
 can pass to operate the rest of the system.
>>=20
>> You have to connect together the two wires that were on the Ammeter. The p=
lus side of the voltmeter you have connect to the accesory or ignition termi=
nal of the ignition switch. The negative side is connected to any suitable e=
arth point.
>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>> Kees Oudesluijs

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Thanks Bill. &nbsp;Yes i am running an alte=
rnator. &nbsp;I hooked it up to the battery - no reading. &nbsp;Probably fri=
ed, will get another.<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Price Lindsay<div><br></div><d=
iv>Sent from my iPad</div></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cit=
e">On Jun 14, 2021, at 10:28 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE &lt;ynotink@msn.com&gt; w=
rote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=
=BB=BF

<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8">


<div style=3D"font-family: &quot;segoe ui westeuropean&quot;, &quot;segoe ui=
&quot;, helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"=
>
A volt meter will read the condition of the battery &nbsp;and as such any ch=
anges will be small and gradual, unlike and amp meter which tracks the balan=
ce of the output of the charging system against the drain on the battery whi=
ch can be quite a bit more extreme..
 I assume you have switched to an alternator and thus to a battery condition=
 (volt) meter.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: &quot;segoe ui westeuropean&quot;, &quot;segoe ui=
&quot;, helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"=
>
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: &quot;segoe ui westeuropean&quot;, &quot;segoe ui=
&quot;, helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"=
>
Bill Lawrence</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: &quot;segoe ui westeuropean&quot;, &quot;segoe ui=
&quot;, helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);"=
>
BN11 #554</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%" tabindex=3D"-1">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" sty=
le=3D"font-size:11pt" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys &lt;healeys-bou=
nces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of R. Lindsay &lt;050.rpl@gmail.com&gt;<br=
>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, June 14, 2021 11:10 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> gradea1@charter.net &lt;gradea1@charter.net&gt;<br>
<b>Cc:</b> Healey List &lt;healeys@autox.team.net&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Electric Issue</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Thank you Hank! &nbsp;Your advice is right on. I found a b=
lack wire, disconnected and hiding behind the tach. Connected the black wire=
, replaced the two burned wires and everything now works. The volt meter sti=
ll but maybe it=E2=80=99s fried. Is there a
 way to test it?
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Thanks again!!<br>
<br>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Price Lindsay
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Cell: 630-841-6300</div>
<div>Email: 050.rpl@gmail.com</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Sent from my iPhone</div>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">On Jun 14, 2021, at 1:42 PM, gradea1@charter.net w=
rote:<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BFPrice- Oh, someone has been messing with the origi=
nal wiring. The black wires on the fixing post of the tach MUST GO TO GROUND=
. The red/white is for the panel lights, POSITIVE. There is an additional bl=
ack wire which is for the panel GROUND.
 The panel switch is R/W &amp; R&nbsp; (no black).&nbsp; The way it is curre=
ntly wired creates a short to the battery-thus your smoke and burned wires.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Check your wiring diagram in the workshop or owners book and INSURE tha=
t you know where each one is connected. The panel switch is just a knife bre=
ak in the red wire and should NEVER GO TO GROUND. Consider replacing those b=
urned wires.&nbsp; Then check the
 wiring of the voltmeter and assemble as Kees has described. Hank<br>
<br>
<div class=3D"x_reply-new-signature"></div>
<p>-----------------------------------------</p>
From: "R. Lindsay via Healeys" <br>
To: "Kees Oudesluijs", "Healey List"<br>
Cc: <br>
Sent: Monday June 14 2021 9:26:47AM<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electric Issue<br>
<br>
Thanks Kees.&nbsp;
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I have 3 wires to the volt meter- red/white to the bulb, black to the r=
ight terminal and green to the left terminal. Are you suggesting putting the=
 green and black wires together on a terminal?</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>On the wiring diagram, there are =E2=80=9Ctriangles=E2=80=9D where the b=
lack wires attach to the gauges , grounding points. &nbsp;On the tach, it ap=
pears the grounding point is connected to a red/white wire going to the pane=
l switch and the two black are connected elsewhere.
 When messing with the wires yesterday I produced a little =E2=80=9Csmoke=E2=
=80=9D and found the insulation on red wire from the panel switch to the lig=
hting switch, and the two red/white wires between the tach and panel switch w=
ere melted.&nbsp;</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>It seems the issue I am having is between the lighting switch, the pane=
l switch and the tach, hence the burned wires (the tach shuts down with the l=
ights and panel switch are on, but runs when the panel switch is on but the l=
ights are off).&nbsp;</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>What do you think?<br>
<br>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Price Lindsay
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Cell: 630-841-6300</div>
<div>Email: 050.rpl@gmail.com</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Sent from my iPhone</div>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
<blockquote>On Jun 14, 2021, at 3:48 AM, Kees Oudesluijs &lt;coudesluijs@che=
llo.nl&gt; wrote:<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
<blockquote>
<div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF
<p>Hi Price,<br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>If you did a straight swap of the Ammeter with the Voltmeter you will hav=
e all sorts of problems.<br>
</p>
<p>The full current is passing through an Ammeter (no resistance), however i=
f you replace the ammeter with a Voltmeter (very high resistance) no current=
 can pass to operate the rest of the system.<br>
</p>
<p>You have to connect together the two wires that were on the Ammeter. The p=
lus side of the voltmeter you have connect to the accesory or ignition termi=
nal of the ignition switch. The negative side is connected to any suitable e=
arth point.<br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p>Kees Oudesluijs<br>
</p>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>


</div></blockquote></body></html>=

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