Simon, a general rule of thumb is
1lb of nitrous expenditure every 10sec
per 100 hp, at around 750 psi bottle
pressure. So your 40hp would likely
utilize about .4 lbs of N2O per 10 seconds.
Bottle heater could get the pressure back up,
but you need to consider charging system ability
to handle the amp draw for the heater, you would
really need to bench test this setup to get the pressure
drop and pressure after your 1min 30 sec delay, and then
of course remember ambient temp being vary variable.
The motor integrity again will only be determined by
trial, as the newer motors are more efficient NA through
lighter, parts with less friction, ie thinner rings. But from what
I have seen, if you use it at WOT on straights, at a fairly high
RPM, which you will be at no doubt, with current 750cc turning
12000 rpm plus all day long, it may hold up for a season, especially
considering the new plated cylinders, which are much harder than the
conventional steel liners, hp wears cylinders, but the new cylinders
are tough. This type of kit manufactured for such a bike for no mandatory
mods required, the ignition retard on nos wouldnt hurt, these heads and
combustion
chambers are so efficient, that at this setting, a degree or 2 is all you would
need.
Joe :)
"Smith, Simon-Pierre" wrote:
> I have zero experience with nitrous so go easy on me.
> This isn't exactly a land-speed question but it seems a good place to ask.
>In our local motorcycle roadrace club they allow nitrous in only one class,
>"formula unlimited". Absolutely no-one uses it. So here's my thought. If I
>get a nice modern 750 and leave it bone stock (well, new exhaust) I can run in
>the production class, then attach nitrous to run in the formula unlimited
>class.
>
> Questions:
> 1) How much nitrous would a 40 horse hit for 10 seconds done 10 times take?
> 2) The hits would be done every minute and 30 seconds. Will this allow time
>for the bottle to warm up? Do I need a heater?
> 3) Are there other mods to the bike needed? Remember I plan to run with a
>stock setup through the twisties and short straights, so lower compression or
>retarded ignition are out. An ignition retard just when the N2O hits is
>possible.
> 4) Any estimate on how much wear would be increased. It is usually possible
>to go a good 10-15 race weekends without a top end rebuild. I'd hate to turn
>that into 3.
> 5) What happens when I crash and the bottle grinds through or the valve gets
>busted off the top? Tipover switches are standard issue so the ignition/fuel
>pump would be off.
>
> Any other advice greatly appreciated.
>
> Simon Smith
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