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Re: Next Phase of Painting the Wannabie...

To: land-speed@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Next Phase of Painting the Wannabie...
From: "gary baker" <lsr350@hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2003 20:17:57 +1000
>Well, I have smeared as much primer on the car as I am going to smear. Now,
>because I am such a wonederfu painter, I want to do some (maybe a lot) of
>finish sanding on the primer. What do I need? Wet or Dry? Grit? Lightl or
>heavy pressure, circular or with the panel strokes?

hey DrMayf try this , apply a guide coat ( using flat black acrilic speckle 
/ dust a single coat over the whole paint job so it looks like it has many 
black spots on the undercoat ) this helps greatly in showing up all the high 
and low spots as you sand back the paint  use a 400 grit wet and dry  with 
water  place the sanding paper over a flat sanding block work in small 
sections with a back /forward sanding action using medium pressure  rinsing 
the paper often to stop it clogging  sand untill all the guide coat is 
sanded off  p.s if you have excessive low spots you will rub through the 
primer to metal on the highspots and you will still have guide coat in the 
low spots  go back and use hand putty to fill the low spots  allow to dry 24 
hrs  then guide coat these  and sand back smooth and recoat the area again 
with primer  remember to feather out the putty when sanding back to blend in 
to the undercoat  when finished clean with soft cloth and water to remove 
all sanding residue  then use a wax and grease remover over the job  and 
allow to dry and you are ready for the top coats .



When this is done, maybe
>next week I will apply the color coat. then another. Do I sand in between
>the color coats? Do I need to do anthing special in prep for the color 
>coat.
>Remember, this is a pig I am putting lipstick on, not a real car that
>anybody is gonna give a hoot about.

best to place the top coat on in a spray booth  dont have one then use the 
garage make sure you have enough light and no draughts wet down the spray 
area to settle the dust  make sure the temp is above 18 deg C  very 
important to make sure the undercoat is free of any dust and oils  use a tac 
rag and rub down the whole jobthen  this removes any grit and dust and 
overspray  you previously used a wax and grease remover  but you can do it 
again to be sure to be sure  , build up the colour coats over a series of 
layers  do NOT try to place to much paint on in one go  or you will get sags 
and runs  mix the paint to the correct ratio as recomended by the paint 
manufacturer  ( remember that practice and paintence is required by a 
painter  ) so practice on a scrap panel or some thing first to get your 
technique right before you start on the actual job  , its best to denib 
between each coat  that is to allow the paint to dry then use a peice of wet 
and dry  without water say 600 grit and gently go over the job and remove 
bits of grit and over spray  then tac rag again  do this to each successive 
coat , build up untill you have an even coverage and colour  not patchy   
make sure that you build up enough thickness  for the final rub back  if you 
are using a solid colour  if you are using a metalic paint or other special 
type you will have to cover this with a clear coat  final rub  use a 1000 or 
1200 grit wet and dry  with water and a small amount of detergent gently rub 
out any overspray and blemishes  untill you have a semi gloss finish  then 
you can buff and polish  easy hey


>Also, I still need an answer to the trunk interior color question:  what's
>cool? I have the battery back there, an aluminum water tank, miscellaneous
>wiring, some blue hose and connectors. Contrast to the red color on the
>exterior? White (can you see salt on white)?  Blue? Mottled trunk paint?

because its not for show I suggest you use a latex based paint ( colour is 
your problem ) this will resist rust and corrosion  and is easy to clean and 
resists knocks and chips etc

>Same q's for what remain of the engine compartment.

use a paint that resists fuel and oils and is resilient  I suggest an engine 
enamel  air dry is ok

>Now, a another question (blushing over the bad paint work - hey it ain't
>mathematical) I would up with a million little dustbunnies from the paint
>overspray drying before it hit anything. I just wipe them off and sand? How
>do I pevent them while putting the color coat on?

this problem can be caused by several things or combinations of things  air 
pressure to high , technique  holding spray gun to far from the surface 
being painted , using the wrong type of thinners ,ambient temp to high, not 
enough thinners  see my recomendations above  note that there is always a 
small amount of overspray  you can limit this by using a double header wet 
coat
spray painting is sure easier than math
Gary

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