Rick Huber wrote:
>
> Safety Fasters,
>
> Almost ready to fire up the 75 B with a rebuilt TR8 3.5 / 5 speed
> embedded within. Since this is my first time doing this sort of thing (a
> conversion newby), I thought I might canvas the list to get a last minute
> check of tips and suggestions from some of you experts. After 7 months of
> assembly, I don't want to screw something up now. Thanks for your patience
> and help.
>
> Some of the key things I've got ready: Please feel free to holler if I've
> done something wrong or have forgotten something obvious or significant.
>
> 1. fluids filled in radiator, engine, trans, diff, brakes, clutch, gas
> tank
> 2. oil pump packed with petroleum jelly, remote oil filter pre-filled
> 3. no leaks or drips (yet ?)
> 4. electricals all hooked up, I hope. rover alternator hooked up, starter
> hooked up - I'm not sure I've got the small wires hooked to the right
> terminals on the solenoid - can't see any identification marks on the GM
> solenoid
> 5. ground strap installed from transmission behind the gaskets to the
> cross member
> 6. instruments reinstalled so I'm ready to see oil pressure and coolant
> temp
> 7. fuel and vacuum lines all installed and checked
> 8. crankshaft rotated to #1 tdc and rotor pointing to #1. Dist. back out
> attempting to turn the oil pump to lubricate the rebuilt but never
> been run engine. I'll have the timing light on to get 10 degrees before
> tdc when cranking before starting. Is that the right way ? I've got the
> Tuning the Rover V8 book, but it dispenses with the basic stuff. Is
> there a good reference for basic engine timing / tuning ? I prefer to go
> by a book.
> 9. Planning to follow the Jim Stuart guidance from a couple weeks ago to
> start it and let it run at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes to break in the
> bearings / rings. I was quite impressed that you set up and started it on
> the first turn, Jim.
> 10.Carter 500 carb is set up just like it came out of the box except for a
> restrictor plate from Glen underneath. Any mixture / speed adjustments
> needed pre start ?
>
> Patience, please: only a few more questions:
>
> 1. with the oil pump packed with grease do I still need to turn the oil
> pump with a drill to get oil flowing - I don't have a tool and haven't
> found one locally. I understand I can just turn the engine with the
> starter ( distibutor in and plugs out ) to get the oil flowing before
> trying to start it.
>
> 2. I see from the wiring diagram that the coil / electrical system in a
> 75 B (non catalytic converter) is not ballasted to reduce the voltage -
> unless that saw tooth looking line is the resistor. Do I need to install
> something to drop the voltage to keep from burning up the inside of the
> distributor ?
>
> 3. The new borg warner fuel pump runs and runs but doesn't pump any gas.
> I didn't think I needed to prime the pump / fill the suction line with gas,
> but do I ?
>
> 4. Transmission is rebuilt but seems unusually hard to move the shifter
> - feels like the shifter linkage has some resistance, it squeaks like it's
> being moved through or against a hard plastic clamp or bushing. Seems to
> have the most friction moving fore and aft rather than left to right. Same
> feeling with clutch engaged or disengaged. Is that right ? Will it
> loosen as it breaks in ? I don't think I hammered the tunnel out enough,
> but it's touching up at the front of the transmission case, not close to
> the shift linkage.
>
> Hope I haven't worn you out. Seems like I'm very close, but with all these
> questions, maybe I've got a little longer than I thought.
>
> Thanks again for the great help,
>
> Cheers and Safety Faster with a V8,
>
> Rick, DO NOT CRANK WITH STARTER TO BUILD OIL PRESURE!!!!!
fill with fluids, including gas. engine at tdc #1 compression. turn oil
pump with tool. when pressure comes up, run pump for 30 seconds. stop
and wait for a couple minutes and repeat. presure should be
immediate.run 30 seconds again and check for leaks. repeat one more time
and then drop in distrib. point rotor at #1 plug wire. don't worry
about 10 degrees advance, just start it. should be running in less than
5 revolutions. run engine for 20 - 25 minutes at 2000 rpm, no load. if
you have a garden hose, run a hose into the radiator through the top
hose. install long flex hose on the stat housing and point it to the
ground. by regulating the faucet, you can vary the temperature and not
worry about overheating while the enigne is running. check the trans
shift tower - what was done for the rebuild? please let me know if we
can help. thanks, ted
--
Ted Schumacher
TS Imported Automotive
404 Basinger Rd.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Ph. 800/543-6648 USA/Canada FAX 419/384-3272 24 hour
Ph. 419/384-3022 - tech./general information
Web page http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
New-Used-Rebuilt-NOS-Performance British car parts.
200 - 300 parts cars in our British-only salvage yard.
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