Rick Huber wrote:
>
> Safety Fasters,
>
> Almost ready to fire up the 75 B with a rebuilt TR8 3.5 / 5 speed
> embedded within. Since this is my first time doing this sort of thing (a
> conversion newby), I thought I might canvas the list to get a last minute
> check of tips and suggestions from some of you experts. After 7 months of
> assembly, I don't want to screw something up now. Thanks for your patience
> and help.
>
> Some of the key things I've got ready: Please feel free to holler if I've
> done something wrong or have forgotten something obvious or significant.
>
> 1. fluids filled in radiator, engine, trans, diff, brakes, clutch, gas
> tank
> 2. oil pump packed with petroleum jelly, remote oil filter pre-filled
> 3. no leaks or drips (yet ?)
> 4. electricals all hooked up, I hope. rover alternator hooked up, starter
> hooked up - I'm not sure I've got the small wires hooked to the right
> terminals on the solenoid - can't see any identification marks on the GM
> solenoid
> 5. ground strap installed from transmission behind the gaskets to the
> cross member
> 6. instruments reinstalled so I'm ready to see oil pressure and coolant
> temp
> 7. fuel and vacuum lines all installed and checked
> 8. crankshaft rotated to #1 tdc and rotor pointing to #1. Dist. back out
> attempting to turn the oil pump to lubricate the rebuilt but never
> been run engine. I'll have the timing light on to get 10 degrees before
> tdc when cranking before starting. Is that the right way ? I've got the
> Tuning the Rover V8 book, but it dispenses with the basic stuff. Is
> there a good reference for basic engine timing / tuning ? I prefer to go
> by a book.
> 9. Planning to follow the Jim Stuart guidance from a couple weeks ago to
> start it and let it run at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes to break in the
> bearings / rings. I was quite impressed that you set up and started it on
> the first turn, Jim.
> 10.Carter 500 carb is set up just like it came out of the box except for a
> restrictor plate from Glen underneath. Any mixture / speed adjustments
> needed pre start ?
>
> Patience, please: only a few more questions:
>
> 1. with the oil pump packed with grease do I still need to turn the oil
> pump with a drill to get oil flowing - I don't have a tool and haven't
> found one locally. I understand I can just turn the engine with the
> starter ( distibutor in and plugs out ) to get the oil flowing before
> trying to start it.
>
> 2. I see from the wiring diagram that the coil / electrical system in a
> 75 B (non catalytic converter) is not ballasted to reduce the voltage -
> unless that saw tooth looking line is the resistor. Do I need to install
> something to drop the voltage to keep from burning up the inside of the
> distributor ?
>
> 3. The new borg warner fuel pump runs and runs but doesn't pump any gas.
> I didn't think I needed to prime the pump / fill the suction line with gas,
> but do I ?
>
> 4. Transmission is rebuilt but seems unusually hard to move the shifter
> - feels like the shifter linkage has some resistance, it squeaks like it's
> being moved through or against a hard plastic clamp or bushing. Seems to
> have the most friction moving fore and aft rather than left to right. Same
> feeling with clutch engaged or disengaged. Is that right ? Will it
> loosen as it breaks in ? I don't think I hammered the tunnel out enough,
> but it's touching up at the front of the transmission case, not close to
> the shift linkage.
>
> Hope I haven't worn you out. Seems like I'm very close, but with all these
> questions, maybe I've got a little longer than I thought.
>
> Thanks again for the great help,
>
> Cheers and Safety Faster with a V8,
>
> Rick
Rick, if you do what Ted said O.K., but if you can't at least hot wire
cooling fans to run & with press. cap off squeeze the top hose while the
motor is running to get the traped air out & pull watter in & a fan to
push air through the rad. will help. Glenn
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