On Mon, 22 May 1995, The Warped Goat wrote:
> I have noticed for a while now that the driver's side of my '68 B is lower
>than
> -the passenger side, but only in the rear. I think this must be worn leaf
> springs. I noticed that new ones cost about 65-70 bucks each new, and I was
> wondering if anything else could be done besides replacing them. Also, if I
> were to replace them, should I do some further work on the rear suspension at
> the same time?
You can re-arch the springs or insert additional leaves. I'd just get
new ones. With the new ones, get new U bolts, rubber pads, and nuts.
Inspect your retaining straps, and replace (~ $8 each for el-cheapo
replacements...) if necessary. I didn't do this when I had the chance
and had to re-do later (not a big deal at all, though).
Inspect rear lever shocks. If leaking, they probably need
replacement/rebuilding. This part I do wish I had done (I haven't yet).
Bump stops. Replace if worn or missing.
Inspect differential and backsides of hubs for leaks. Check wheel bearings.
I mean, as long as you're down there, inspect all that stuff you don't
normally see... exhaust, fuel tank, whatever.
>I have never done any work on the suspension or underbody (just finishing
>a restoration under the bonnet) and I was wondering whether I should
>tackle this job myself. How difficult is it to replace the leaf springs?
>I have a set of ramps, but those won't work in this situation. Will a
>couple of scissor jacks and some jackstands do the trick or should I turn
>this over to a professional shop?
This is pretty simple, and easier than lots of other stuff you will be
doing <evil grin>. You will need:
One jack (I'd use a hydraulic floor jack myself, but whatever works)
Two jack stands
Breaker bar, appropriate sockets ( 1/2", 9/16"), ratchet handle
WD-40 or other penetrating oil
Jack the car up on each side, placing the jack stand for that side just
forward of where the leaf spring attaches in the front. Careful you
don't mash the folded sheet metal which makes the attachment point (but
be as close to the attachment point as possible, since you know this is
load-bearing). Give yourself ample clearance, as you want to fit the
breaker bar between the floor and the attachment point nuts/bolts.
Remove the rear wheels.
You blocked the front wheels, right? <g>
Soak the attachment point bolt/nuts in WD-40. Spray WD-40 on the U-bolts
so that the liquid runs down onto the nuts, and let soak.
Jack up the half-shaft so that the weight of the shaft is supported, but
the spring isn't compressed. You are trying to take all the load off the
U-bolts and spring attachment points. You want to jack by the half-shaft
itself, not by the plate the U-bolts go through.
Loosen the nuts on the U-bolts. Use the breaker bar if necessary.
Loosen and remove the nut on the front attachment bolt. Leave the bolt
in to support the spring.
Remove the two nuts on the rear attachment swing strap. Remove the
retaining plate.
Check for tension on the spring, it should be hanging by the front and
rear attachments.
Unbolt remaining U-bolt nuts and swing the plate out of the way (it is
attached to the rear lever shock, but should swivel far enough out of the
way to clear.
Remove spring, noting which end has the metal-sleeved rubber bushing.
Put rubber pads on new spring.
"Assembly is the reverse of disassembly". Use new U-bolts and nuts.
Make sure the bump-plate is lined up with the bump-stop.
Repeat for other side. I >know< you were thinking of doing both sides at
ones, right?
It's quite easy if you soak up with penetrating oil first, and have a
nice breaker bar ready for stubborn nuts (mine were all on the U-bolts).
Admire the new stance of the car! Notice that it looks tail-high now and
you probably need new front springs. Front springs are much more
exciting to R&R.
John M. Trindle | jtrindle@tsquare.com | Tidewater Sports Car Club
'73 MGB DSP | '69 Spitfire E Stock | '88 RX-7 C Stock
Home Page: http://www.widomaker.com/~trindle
"God bless and keep the Czar... far away from us! - Tevye"
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