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Re: new engine/re-engine

To: TRIFARI@aol.com
Subject: Re: new engine/re-engine
From: jtilton@vt.edu (Jay Tilton)
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 1995 10:31:29 +0600
>   Question:  What I think I need is a new engine.  A Chevy 300 someting or
>maybe a Mazda hummer.  The engine must meet the following criteria.  1.  Not
>screw up the smog regs. 2.  Allow me to drive at altitude without any
>complaint.  3.  Give me some power--I think the 1800 cc mill in the MGB is
>basically the same engine installed in the 1955 MGA--no wonder the brit car
>industry is dead.  4.  Be relatively easy to install--ie with minimum frame
>modifications.  Any thoughts??

Just because a design is old doesn't mean it's no good.  Care to guess how 
long the engine in my 85 Ford Crown Victoria has been around in one form or 
another?  I've always found it ironic that the Britcar industry was killed 
by the US, it's biggest market.  Is it any wonder that Rover doesn't want us 
to have the MGF?

If you're bent on easily-installed raging power, go for the Rover 3.5-litre 
conversion.  Your 1980 B would require virtually no chassis mods at all, 
just a mechanical transplant (check out 
http://www.ipl.co.uk/MG/v8conv1.html).  Plan to spend at least four grand on 
this.  Double that if you want anything more than a hatchet job, or if you 
want an engine that's not so much a drop-in.   Double again to reinforce the 
chassis enough for some big-displacement Detroit iron.  Doesn't sound so 
good anymore, does it?

Would you believe me if I told you you could make your existing engine 
breathe fire for $1500?  Find somebody with an older B (you have to go back 
to at least '72 for a high-compression engine) and ask him for a ride.  Hard 
to believe that guy's engine has anything in common with yours.

Contrary to what many belive, horses don't live in carburetors or 
distributors.  They live in cams and pistons.  The later cam makes the 
engine downright anemic.  Combine that with your 8.0:1 compression ratio 
(compared to 9.0:1 on older B's) and your engine is a mere shadow of what it 
could be.

Don't be so anxious to toss in a different powerplant yet.  You'll save 
yourself sh*t-loads of money and headaches if you do the following (in the 
order listed):

a) swap your cam for an older-spec one.  Even better, go for a performance 
cam. Compare the specs (from the Haynes manual and the Victoria British 
catalog).

                        Inlet opens  closes        Exhaust opens  closes
engines before 18V883:  16 deg BTDC  56 deg ABDC   51 deg BBDC    21 deg ATDC
     18V883 and after:   8   "    "  42   "    "   54   "    "    18   "    "
     Kent Speed Grind:  25   "    "  65   "    "   60   "    "    30   "    "
      Kent Road Grind:  37   "    "  69   "    "   69   "    "    37   "    "

You'll probably also have to change some incidental things like pushrods and 
valve springs, but the whole process isn't remotely as complicated as 
installing a different engine.  If you're concerned about emissions tests, 
there exist cams specifically designed to boost engine output while 
maintaining emissions requirements.

b) Install a set of high-compression pistons.  No sweat.  You'll have to 
start using 93 octane fuel (if you don't already), and your car might have 
dieseling problems, but (IMHO) that's a fair tradeoff for some extra torque.

c) As long as you're still saving money over the engine transplant, throw on 
a header and free-flow exhaust system.  Go for the stainless steel; you'll 
be glad you did.

d) A high-voltage ignition coil couldn't hurt things.  If your old Lucas 
electronic ignition is spotty, get a Crane/Allison setup, too.  It's a snap 
to install in your 45DE4 distributor.

e) The Only thing left is the carb.  Dual SU's sure would be nice, wouldn't 
they?  If you're feeling ambitious, check out the fuel injection article in 
the latest issue of _British Car_.

After options a) and b) your car will already be quick as stink.  Options c) 
through e) are just icing after that.  You've maintained most of your car's 
originality, and you'll have saved enough time and money over an engine 
transplant to buy another B!
--
Jay Tilton     | vt <> Vermont.  vt = Virginia Tech.
jtilton@vt.edu | .sig subject to change without notice


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