In a message dated 96-01-12 16:33:35 EST, you write:
>A stock engine rebuild is not complicated, especially if you have done
>other engines. Following directions, keeping track of where you are and
>where the pieces have gone, and making sure you have a good machine shop
>are the important things. The same as for the Chevy.
>
>Two months isn't unrealistic either. That's how long mine took, and I
>was restricted to one day a week or so in the winter (No garage big
>enough for both the engine and the car most of those weeks).
I've joined this list in the middle of this thread, but... I've built
atleast 6 mgb engines since 1984. Cost for parts and and machining range
from about $500 to $2500 depending on the level of prep, mine range from
street to SCCA DSP and SCCA EP prep engines. Two months is a good time frame.
I've rebuilt engines over a saturday afternoon but I've also made mistakes
on these engines that caused there early demise. My best advice for DSP is
OIL OIL OIL. Make shure you have a baffled pan ( not hard to make yourself)
and or an acusump. Run an oil line from under the preshure guage sender to
the oil galery on the back of the head. You'll need to drill out the core
plug on the rear of the head and thread it for a pipe fitting. I now use a
#3 AN braded stainless bake line for the connection, I've seen and used 1/6"
cooper with compression fittings. The cooper lines broke for me twice while
racing in DSP so I'd stick with the AN hose myself. This extra oil line will
save your rocker arm shaft whitch you should replace durring your rebuild if
you see any wear. DSP doesn't allow porting except 1" from the outer surface
of the head (the last I read these rules was '93 or '94 so this may have
changed) so your best bet is to take your exaust/intake gasket and fit it to
the size of your header and intake manafold. You'll probably have to cut
away sone of the gasket material if not measure the difference in size.
Mount the gasket to head and scribe the outline subtracting any differance
if the header is smaller. Scribe a line 1" inside each port then grindout
the head tapering back to the 1" mark you can use a dremel or a die grinder
for this.
On machine shops. Make shure you have a strait head and block deck (good
head bolts, I recomend ARP). Ask the machinist to be very carefull when
removing the front and rear main bearing caps. I've had some pounded off and
marred this causes them to leak oil or worse. I've built a removal tool out
of steal plate and threaded rod that I give to the shop with my block. I
could go on abot B engines forever but... go for it rebuilding one of these
things is fun and rewarding. Thers noting like winning a race with your own
engine under the hood!
John Ross
'65 EP MGB "currently getting a new 13.5-1 Cosworth "B" engine"
Some times the best things come out of your own kitchen uh I mean garage
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