> Brake pedal to the metal! I traced it to a faulty left rear brake
> cylinder, where the fluid had leaked out, ruined the shoe and
> semi-evaporated on the garage floor.
>
> Michael Ohleger
> '67 MGB
> '70 MGB
Darn it, you jinxed me.
I was skipping this thread about MG brake failure because
"my brakes are just fine, those poor suckers".
Whoops. I had to go back and dig this one out of my
email trashbin.
Just yesterday, went to the garage to see how the
Midget was wintering and sure enough, no brakes. Mine appears
to be the right-rear wheel cylinder leaking. I can't really
see a discernable puddle on the dirty floor, but the tire
is stained on the inside and the wheel is damp.
I still have enough brakes to stop the car from rolling,
probably because of the dual circuit system. But the pedal
does go to the metal. Darn, I just put new shoes in there
too.
While I have the floor, anything I should know? I have to
exhume the car before I can really debug, but I assume I'll
be checking the brake lines, connections, wheel cylinder. Then
fixing the leak, refilling and bleeding the system, then
changing the brake shoe.
Should I expect to be bleeding the whole system, or just
that corner?
And finally, email me opinions because I know this is
a mega-FAQ, but what is the best one-man bleeding tool?
(I haven't had to work on hydraulics since I was a teen
and owned an 83 corolla that ate front brakes, and it
shows)
--
.---------------------------------------Ottawa-Canada-GOSENSGO-----.
/ Trevor Boicey 1992 Celica GT 1975 MG Midget /
`---- tboicey@brit.ca ------------------------------------------'
Trevor, you will only have to bleed that corner, assuming you do not
have problems anywhere else. More than likely, the brake cylinder seal gave
out. Brake lines rarely come loose or fail, execpt when they rust, and that
would be an obivous sign, and you wont have to remove the lines to check
them. I pretty sure that all you will need to do after replacing the wheel
cylinder is to dry off the brake pad. Also dry the area inside the brake
drum, as the fluid will collect unwanted foreign particals. If after doing
this, and you still fail to get pressure, you will need to have the master
cylider rebuilt or replaced (an unfortunate project for me this winter also)
good luck,
Adam Harmon
'76 MGB
cyberman@bright.net
Also, if your brake fluid is more than a few years old, it is best to bleed
all lines with fresh new fluid. Old fluid has water and foreign particals
that will damage the rubber brake hoses, not to meantion causing brake fade
when you panic stop.
|