Rob't-
You got into an area with which I am familiar. That's not to say
"expertise" but it rings a bell. When I was doing the V8 engine for the
B, my racer friend, Fred, lightened the flywheel. As you might recall,
the engine and trans came from a TR8. I don't remember the exact
numbers, but I do distinctly remember "20%" as the amount removed from
the flywheel, in order to keep it streetable. You are right-It has to
come from the non-clutch side. To observe the flywheel effect for real,
take off your lawn mower blade and try to start it. It might run but it
will run poorly. Remember to shut off the mower before you reinstall the
blade.
The flywheel collects kinetic energy. In order to speed up the
rpm, then the engine must overcome the inertia of the mass. After this
is done, the engine does not care how much the flywheel weighs. (I wish
I could remember the tractor engine name that hit occasionally on one
cylinder and had a multi ton flywheel.) Anyway the geewhiz factor is
the only thing to consider. My V8 engine will never idle like the lovely
Mrs. Allen's Camaro. The Isky cam and some other stuff will see to that.
Factor in a 20% lightened flywheel and it goes downhill, except in the
gee whiz factor, which is about in the 97th percentile now. It depends
on what you are after, my friend. Ever listened to the Indy cars rev up?
That "rappa rappa rappa" is the result of really light flywheels as well
as super engines. They can rev from 1,200 to 4,000 in milliseconds
because there is no pesky weight on the rotating mass to slow things
down.
In summation, you are probably right about the process not
helping a street car. All I can say is to remember the gee whiz factor.
Larry Dickstein
bugide@juno.com
If you're stupid, you'll have to pay for it!
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