Steven Tritle wrote:
>
> Art Pfenninger wrote:
> >
> > I'll give the auto parts store a try. I know the VW switch looks
> > the same but the threads are metric. I have put three switches in in three
> > years. Always the same problem, it will work when first installed but then
> > someone will tell me my brakes lights don't work. If I press really hard
> > on the pedal they will light, otherwise nothing.
> > ...Art
> >
> > On Sat, 1 Nov 1997 ejrussell@sprynet.com wrote:
> >
> > > On Sat, 1 Nov 1997, Art Pfenninger <ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU> wrote:
> > > > Any idea of what car the replacement brake light switch might be
> > > >from, I'd like to try a switch that lasts at least a year.
> > > >...Art
> > > >
> > > >On Fri, 31 Oct 1997 ejrussell@sprynet.com wrote:
> > >
> > > >> Check the hydraulic brake light switch under the hood (bonnet). They
> > > >>don't last forever. If you have 12 volts going into the switch
>(ignition ON)
> > > >>connect the two wires at the switch together (temporarily). If the brake
> > > >>lights are now on (ignition ON) the circuit is OK and the switch is
>bad. It is
> > > >>a standard US thread, I get replacements locally. I think the original
>has
> > > >>small screws to attach the wires, I made short jumpers to adapt to what
>I
> > > >>bought locally...
> > >
> > > Art, I don't know what car the switch is from but it must be a
>standard
> > > design. I brought the failed original to my (very helpful) local auto
>supply
> > > store. They glanced at it, pulled one off the shelf and I was all set.
>The only
> > > difference is that the original has two screw terminals and the
>replacement has
> > > two bullet connectors. (Or is visa-versa?) I made two short jumpers to
>adapt the
> > > MGA harness to the replacement switch. The one in my spare parts bin now
>is:
> > > BORG-WARNER # S-194 I don't understand why they don't last very long, I
>get
> > > leary after a couple of years. I recall reading someone's opinion that
>silicome
> > > brake fluid (which I have used for 10+ years) somehow shortens the life
>of these
> > > switches which I don't understand. I have found that quickly changing the
>switch
> > > causes only a tiny loss of brake fluid and no air gets in the line. I have
> > > wondered whether the position of the switch (contacts up) leaves a small
>air
> > > bubble inside the switch allowing it to deteriorate somehow...? I have
>had the
> > > same style switch in my '41 Chevy truck for 4-5 years with no trouble. It
>is
> > > mounted horizontally, my theory is that the brake fluid (also silicone)
>can
> > > somehow get all the way inside therefore it is surviving. Does that make
>any
> > > sense? Perhaps you could test this theory for us by rolling your car onto
>its
> > > side when you replace the switch!! Maybe the MG just prefers to keep the
>Lucas
> > > heritage alive!
> > > Did you know that the Queen knighted Mr Lucas for his invention of
> > > intermittent windshield wipers? They conveniently neglected to mention his
> > > earlier inventions: intermittent headlights, intermittent ignition, etc!!
> > >
> > > Eric
> > > Bridgewater, MA
> > > <ejrussell@sprynet.com>
> > >
> I replaced my switch 2 years ago on my TD. I found that the switch had
> corroded over the opening. I removed the switch and cleaned it and
> replaced it and all was well. I do not use silicone fluid. I did
> purchase a new switch just in case however.
>
> Steve
> 52 TD
I'm on my second switch in 3 years on my 51 TD. The last one only lasted
9 months! I tried cleaning my old switch but to no avail.
I am using silicone brake fluid and am interested to hear what everyone
has to say about causing premature breakdown of switches.
Roger
'51 TD
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