Paul,
When I restored my wifes' Morris, I mixed Rustoleum into a match with the
catalyzed paint on the car. I then applied it over the catalyzed
primer/surfacer. Rustoleum has given good service in the past (I'm not
telling how far past) because it doesn't seem to chip as badly as most paints.
As for primer, I use the PPG catalyzed primer/surfacer with the high-build
over it. Works super!! Wear your chem warfare mask. I haven't used lead
for years; the new epoxy material is now so good, that you just don't need
it. You don't need the lead poisoning, either.
Regards, Ray
At 10:21 PM 12/4/97 -0400, Murch, Paul wrote:
>Two topics in one night! I have been working on the body of my
>pull-handle 64-65 and am getting close to actually seeing results. The
>car is stripped. I currently have front and rear ends under the car but
>they are going to go and I am going to flip my bod and prep the bottom
>(There is a web page writen by a guy who shows plans on a DIY gig). I
>have the car mostly stripped of paint and an Eastwood leading kit on the
>way (hopefully I will use no bondo). I now have a bare unibody.
>
>Questions:
>I want to paint/protect the areas not usually exposed (ex. underbody,
>wheel wells, fire wall, wheel arches. What is the best way to do this?
>I want to paint the car with hood, fenders, trunk lid etc. on but need
>to protect the rest.
>
>I have the car to bare metal. What is the best way of priming it? I
>bought a new hood and It has a black high build primer. Can this be
>duplicated at home? By a shop?
>
>Any used body solder? Tricks? Suggestions?
>
>
>Paul Murch
>65 B (stripping for paint)
>89 CRX 160k and counting (150mi/day commuter)
>88 RX-7 convertable (waiting to be retired by the MG)
>94 Miata (wifes car, not *that* bad)
>
>4 two seat cars, no room for the mother in law!
>
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