Couldn't have said it better. Perhaps this is how $10,000 MG's begin.
Start with a rust bucket, put $4000 into the body and another $4000 into
the engine. Two years later you've got a nice $4500 MG that is almost as
fast as a Neon.
...Art
On Wed, 18 Mar 1998, robert weeks wrote:
> Hi Art,
>
> I will be rebuilding this engine myself, and I will be getting all new
> bolts, but I'll be damned if I'm going to spend $240.00 on ARP's bolts.
> These are bolts that are made for Indy race cars, not a 1275cc Midget
> engine. I've noticed a trend on these lists of people being extremely
> extravagant with their money and then turning around and telling others
> that that's the only way to do it. Moss, who as we know is no bargain
> basement supplier will do all of the bolts in a higher grade than stock
> for roughly $150. Just what am I getting for my extra $90 if I go with
> ARP? All I get is the ability to *tell* others that *I* used ARP bolts
> in my rebuild.
>
> I bought a Midget partly because the parts were relatively inexpensive
> and the car was easy to work on. Had I wanted to spend money like there
> was no tomorrow I would have bought an old Porsche. If I wanted a 5 speed
> gearbox I'd have bought a Miata, if I wanted a car with a different shock
> setup I'd have bought an Alfa. But I want a Midget, a Midget that isn't
> trying to be anything other than a Midget. I don't need high lift roller
> rockers, 5 speed trannys, Koni shocks, or any of that other junk. If the
> DPO of my car hadn't put a Weber on, I certainly wouldn't have.
>
> No disrespect meant to anyone on this list, but a Midget is a Midget. It
> certainly isn't an Indy car and it ain't no Porsche. I'll stick with the
> tried and true original replacement parts where and when I can. Yes the
> bolts should and will all be replaced, but you can be sure that I won't
> be buying them from ARP!
>
> That's my .02
>
> Robert Weeks
> Durham NC
> 1969 Midget
> http://www.woozy.com/midget/
>
>
> At 7:46 PM -0500 3/18/98, Art Pfenninger wrote:
> > This is just my .002 cents worth but... how many places out there
> >that rebuild these engines put new bolts in? If you are doing the work
> >yourself then you will be saving more than the cost of the bolts, so you
> >could afford to buy them if you really wanted to. If someone else is
> >building the engine and they reuse the old bolts you will never know. I
> >suppose that the bolts could break or come loose, but I don't think I
> >would be willing to invest about 50% of the cost of the rest of the parts
> >in new bolts. If I did replace any of the bolts they would be the flywheel
> >bolts. These are special bolts and since they are only 7/16" they can
> >strip if tightened too much.
> >...Art
> >
> >On Wed, 18 Mar 1998, robert weeks wrote:
> >
> >> Well,
> >>
> >> I called them and the price for head, flywheel, and rod bolts comes to
> >> 231.73, that's a little pricy for my blood. I don't intend to race this
> >> car or anything even close. Anyone have any other suggestions? My original
> >> spec bolts lasted 29 years, if a new set of originals lasted another 29
> >> years I'd be pretty darned happy!
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Robert
> >>
> >> ------
> >>
> >> >Robert:
> >> >
> >> >Well of course you didn't find them in Canoga Park, why on earth would you
> >> >look there ?
> >> >If you had looked in Santa Paula like I MENT to say you would have
> >>found them
> >> >at 250 Quail Ct. with a phone number of 1 805 278-7223.
> >> >See, with these old cars one tends to live in the past, not too bad in
> >>and of
> >> >itself except when it comes to current addresses..............
> >> >
> >> >"Midget" Susan
> >> >(who will, perhaps, live in the current decade in certain areas)
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
>
>
>
>
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