Mike-
The normal caveats first... I'm not a professional and my suggestion is
dated (was using 10 or 15 years ago). With that said...
I like lacquer a lot (especially for beginners)... but don't like that
something as simple as bird droppings can etch nastiness into a new
paintjob. My suggestion is to put a urethane clear (with hardener) on after
the color coat is finished. The urethane is virtually impenetrable and can
easily be compounded (buffed) within a couple of days of shooting it. My
reasons for suggesting this...
* Lacquer mixes somewhere in the 2 parts thinner to 1 part paint...
and dries inside out. This quick drying has many advantages... quick to
rework; dust on the ground, not painted floor.
* Enamel mixes somewhere in the 1 part thinner to 1 part paint... and
dries outside in (i.e. skins over and then cures). New enamel paint jobs
can be dry to the touch, but will take a fingernail dent rather easily.
* Lacquer mistakes can be sanded usually within an hour of painting...
and then repainted immediately.
* Enamel mistakes can take weeks to be "cured" enough to sand...
painting over fresh enamel can be troublesome too (orange peel, etc.).
* Color and metallic particles in paint add to the "sag" and "drip"
factor... being able to easily work through mistakes with lacquer and then
use a top coat with no extra particle weight increases a beginner's chance
for a smooth, clear finish.
* Lacquer paint jobs (with or without urethane) require buffing... the
work isn't done when you're done painting.
The one downside to this approach is buying essentially two different
products for one paint job... and urethane clear isn't cheap. If you're
going to keep a great coat of wax on your car and be able to get to bird
droppings quickly, stopping with the lacquer may be enough.
Good luck on your project!
Matt
'72 MGB
PS Any pro's out there, please feel free to correct the information I've
given Mike if it's bad... 'cause I've got a car that needs paint too!
|