Before rebuilding the MC and buying a repair kit, it's better to dismantle
the MC and look into the MC when all the contents are out.
The bore is very narrow compared with a brake MC, so when the bore is pitted
it's hardly possible to correct this. Therefore a new MC than should be
I have been there....
> -----Original Message-----
> From: James Nazarian Jr [SMTP:James.Nazarian@Colorado.EDU]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 1999 5:44 PM
> To: Robert Berning
> Cc: email@example.com
> Subject: Re: Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder Problem
> It sounds to me like all you need are new seals in the MC. It isn't hard
> to do but if you get the redesigned seals take a good look at what you are
> doing because the manual shows the originals and I ended up puting mine in
> backwards because I was trying to use the haynes manual with the
> redesigned seals. They are not hard to do and should fix your problem.
> James Nazarian
> '71 B roadster
> '74 BGT bastardization with big alluminum heart :)
> On Tue, 3 Aug 1999, Robert Berning wrote:
> > If I press the clutch in and hold it, it will start engaging and quickly
> > fully engage the clutch. If I hold down the clutch and lift till it feel
> > like it the clutch is engaged then press down again, the distance need
> > the clutch to engage decreases every time the petal is pushed to the
> > I would assume the fluid is leaking past the rubber seam, and not
> > the pressure.
> > I am pretty sure this means my clutch master cylinder is bad. Could it
> > something else?
> > If it is the clutch master cylinder, should I try rebuilding it with a
> > from Moss or just buy a new/rebuilt one from Moss? I would also
> > change/rebuild the slave cylinder too.
> > Thank you,
> > Robert Berning
> > firstname.lastname@example.org